Woodwork Joints

Woodwork Joints

Anatomical Structure of Woodwork Joints

Depending on the type of woodworking project you may have in mind, the following will help you decide on what appropriate woodwork joint to use. With the advent of new tools and machineries, traditional joints have evolved in various types. These woodwork joints differ in styles but have the ultimate purpose of making a strong and stable woodwork.

1. Square Butt Joint. Simply known as the butt joint, it is the most basic joint in joining two pieces of timber relying solely on glue to stick it together. The advantage of this is its being quick and easy to make. It is very useful in making boxes and picture frames. However, since the end of the timber where glue is applied is porous which absorbs most of the glue, it becomes difficult to hold the timber together. On the other hand, this can be strengthened by using screws or pins as support.

2. Mitre or Miter Joint. This is a joint created by sawing one end of two parts to be joined at an angle of 45° to form a 90o angle corner. This is more often used in making picture frames than butt joints. Although this popular method of joining is cheap, it requires accurate cutting to achieve its best strength and visual appeal.

3. Dado Joint. Also known as the housed joint, this type of joint is most popularly used in making bookcases, shelves, and drawers . Unlike butt joints, this joint does not need the benefit of any glue or screw to hold it in place. To make a dado joint, a cut in one piece of wood receives the end of the other. It is much stronger than the butt joint and has a more professional appeal.

4. Dowel Joint. To make a dowel joint, drill aligning holes in each piece of wood then by using glue attach the dowels in place for a tight joint. To achieve high accuracy, it requires a dowelling jig and bits. Use a jig and a drill press to obtain straight holes with uniform depth.

5. Mortise-and-Tenon Joint. This joint is used to Join two members perpendicularly. A rectangular projection from the end of one piece called the tenon fits snugly into the mortise cut in the second piece. This strong and traditional joint can be made even stronger by adding a peg. This is commonly used in antique furniture building.

6. Tongue-and-Groove Joint. Also known as the finger joint, this joint allows for wood shrinkage, it's great for floors and paneling. Long tapered tongues or fingers that interlock join two pieces of timber lengthwise. A high powered router is used to cut a groove in the edge of one piece and a tongue on the other to fit into the groove.

7. Through-Dovetail Joint. This is one of the most stylish joints available, but also one that requires additional patience and more accuracy to cut. The interlocking cut of the wood makes it really strong plus gives more visual interest. This type of joint is used in the manufacture of superior furniture.

8. Lap Joint. This is made by laying one piece on top of another. This can be used either in an angle or lengthwise joint. Lap joints can be made manually with a saw and chisel, on a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, or with a router and a straight bit. Meanwhile, there is a variation of a lap joint which is the half lap joint. This is when half of the thickness from each piece is removed. To make a half lap joint, several cuts half the depth of the material is made while the excess is removed with a chisel.

Now that you know most of the different types of woodwork joints and you can now determine which is best suited for your next woodwork project, there is no reason why you shouldn’t start working on it.

Woodworking Websites have become a lot more than a hobby, I now have a very successful and stress free life by helping others build and own their own Website Businesses.

My ebook "Chewing Bread for Ducks" has become very popular with people who want their website on Page One on Google. (and other Search Engines of course).

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Shop Secrets From Master Craftsmen
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Freud 99-031 1-1/2-Inch Reversible Glue Joint Bit
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Freud 99-018 Beading Router Bit for Canoe Joint with 1/2-Inch Shank
Combine these two bits to create joints for projects such as circular planters and canoes.Bit 99-017 cuts the flute.Bit 99-018 cut...

Router Bit Set

Router Bit Set

How do you check to see whether your computer is set to get ip addresses automatically in windows vista?

i have windows vista home premium 32 bit and want to make sure my computer is set to get ip addresses automatically so it can work well with my router. its in network adapter but i don't know how to get there.

tke the vista computer back to the store where you bought it
that is the best advice
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Used Cisco Routers and Switches

In the current economy, driving a small and efficient business is not an easy thing to do. And of course, it is the only way to survive also. Companies all over the world are trying to reduce their cost in every wing they have which includes the Network Infrastructure also.

So how can a company stay small and save money, while still getting the best enterprise network equipment available? As we all know the standards of Cisco Systems Products and their Quality, they make quality networking equipment that often retains a great value even after a bit of wear and tear. Many of the companies dispose the network equipment that is no longer working, but still they can be recycled and refurbished for sale.

Here I just want to mention some thing about the Cisco Routers. The difference that sets a router a part from a PC is the fact that a router can perform special tasks such as controlling or routing traffic between two or more computer networks. Routers can be thought of as a smart network device. Consider the hardware of a Cisco router in order to understand just specifically how a router can perform its many functions. Besides all these, the cost of these routers is also a bit expensive. But today, we can able get the used Routers for a better price. So many companies sell used Cisco routers for an affordable price.

So, Buying or selling the used Network equipment can save lot of money. It makes a big difference in costs; it would be ten to thousands of dollars, with little difference in the quality. We can put the money which we saved by buying a used networking hardware in different areas of our business.

There are so many ways to buy and sell used Cisco Routers and the other equipment. We can find so many companies running this business and are been very much successful.

We can buy them online and we can also have the trusted warranty and 100% product certification for used networking hardware. You can just search online for your desired equipment and you can easily find that.

Many businesses are now opting to employ refurbished or used Cisco routers and switches. It also has become a common practice to deploy used Cisco IT equipment, as evidenced by the emergence of reliable vendors specializing in refurbished and re-marketed Cisco equipment.

About the Author

In the current economy, driving a small and efficient business is not an easy thing to do. And of course, it is the only way to survive also. Companies all over the world are trying to reduce their cost in every wing they have which includes the Network Infrastructure also.

Router Bit Set

Carbide Router Bit

Carbide Router Bit

The Benefits of Carbide Tipped Tools

Carbide (also known as titanium carbide or tungsten carbide) is a chemical compound that is commonly used for tipping cutting tools. Carbide is hard and durable, but most importantly, it stays sharp for longer periods of time than most other metals. While too brittle and expensive to be used for the entire tool body, carbide is the ideal tip for saws blades, routers, lathe bits, and drill bits. I recommend seeking out carbide tipped saw blades and routers if you plan on doing serious metal or wood working. The following is some basic information you should know before considering or selecting a carbide-tipped tool.

  • Carbide is both highly heat resistant (melting point of 2,870 °C / 5,200 °F) and extremely hard (8.5–9.0 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness.)
  • Carbide tipped saw blades have a longer “tool life” than basic steel tools because of their extreme durability. This is especially relevant for higher speeds and feeds associated with more aggressive machining. If you plan on using your tool frequently on hard or dense materials, carbide tips are a must.
  • Carbide tipped tools are slightly more expensive, but they stay sharp anywhere from ten to twenty times longer than a simple steel tip.
  • Carbide tips are also less likely to crater when machining more abrasive materials.
  • Because of its strength, carbide sharpening requires a specific type of abrasive, preferably something coated in diamond or a carbide abrasive wheel.
  • C-2 carbide tips are used for cutting non-ferrous materials such as cast iron.
  • C-5 carbide tips are used for cutting steel materials.

About the Author

Maria Polidoro is the owner of Ace Tool Online, a leading dealer and service center for
electrical power tools
. Headquartered in Wantagh, New York, Ace Tool offers over 70 major brands of electric
hand and power tools
and a full service center, making it one of North America’s premier
power tools suppliers
.
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Carbide Router Bit article

Get the Most from Woodworking Tools with Some Useful Tricks of the Trade

Many of the great woodworkers have become skillful because they have had the opportunity to watch and learn from a pro. Undoubtedly, serving as an apprentice under a professional woodworking expert is the best way to hone your own skills but not everyone has this opportunity. However, if you have the drive and passion for woodworking, it is entirely possible to become highly skilled by simply reading about the subject. The following includes some useful tricks of the trade that will surely help you to get the most out of your woodworking tools. A woodworking expert is not born; it takes time and some useful hints.

Wood is the woodworker's most important tool. Without wood, your woodworking tools would have no job and there could be no end product. The first trick to woodworking is knowing how to properly cut plywood, and that involves using the right tools and manipulating the wood in the appropriate way. Different cutting jobs require different blades. Blades differ depending on the number of teeth, the width, angle and the rake of the blade. Before cutting, assess which blade best suits your cutting needs and which one will help you to produce the cleanest cut possible. When you are ready to cut, score the cut first by running the plywood through your saw once, removing only a small piece. The next cut that you make will be much cleaner. To keep a clean line in your cut, use a router. Make sure that your router is fitted with a straight bit as this will help you to achieve a clean line. A pilot bit and a straight edge will also help produce a clean line. You may also want to consider purchasing a panel scoring setup. Some saws can be fitted with a plywood panel scoring setup that is most useful if you cut a lot of plywood. This setup consists of a smaller blade that first scores the surface of the plywood before the wood reaches the cutter.

Once you have your wood cut, it is necessary to sand down the rough edges. You may not realize it, but sandpaper is one of your important woodworking tools. Here are some helpful wood sanding hints. For easy handling, some woodworkers cut their sandpaper into smaller pieces if they have a sanding block or a finishing sander while others fold the sandpaper to rotating sides as it wears down. However, make sure that your sandpaper is not folded so that two abrasive sides touch as this will wear down the paper against itself during use. To prevent this, fold the paper so that the abrasive sides contact only the non-abrasive sides. This simply requires a single cut along half of the sheet.

Once all your wood is cut and well sanded, you are ready to build. Handling wood is not always easy though, but there are tricks that can help you to do the job right. Anyone who has ever tried to nail into the end of board knows that splitting can happen because as the nail is driven into the wood, the wood fibers are forced apart causing the grain to split. Experienced carpenters will flatten the tip of the nail with a hammer before driving it into the wood because a flattened tip will slice through the wood and crush the fibers rather than split them. This woodworking trick is most useful when installing molding and trim.

There are so many tricks of the trade to be learned when it comes to woodworking. You will find that as you begin to amass a larger knowledge of woodworking tips, your projects will start to look better, and you will be well on your way to becoming a woodworking expert. Woodworking professionals will tell you that there exists an important relationship between the tools you use and the wood you handle.



By: John Mann

About the Author:

John Mann is an experienced home renovator and webmaster. Visit his website Workbench Ideas for workshop tips.

Router Bits

Router Bits

How to Router a straight line (in wood)?

I am using a straight router bit. I want to router a board length ways but i want it to stay even all the way down the board. Does anyone know how to do this?

Clamp a straightedge to the workpiece and run the router along that. Be sure to run the router from left to right as you face the straightedge. If you run it the other way, the router will push away and may ruin the cut. Another option is to buy an edge guide for your router. They are adjustable, so you can set the router exactly where you want it in the board. Hope this helps.
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Choosing the Right Router

A router is one of the most versatile, and widely used tools on the market today; and for good reason. A router is a woodworking tool designed to rout, or mill out an area in the surface of a piece of wood, and can feasibly perform almost any kind of shaping and wood cutting application. It would be difficult to determine the application in which a router is most commonly used; they dominate edging operations, and are masterfully equip for box joining, mortising, dovetailing, dadoing, and rabbeting to name only a few.

There are several types of router available, each having individual features, benefits and their own favorite applications. The most popular types of router are the fixed-base and the plunge-base router; each of which offering their own set of pros and cons which I will attempt to shed some light upon. Beginning with the first born, the fixed-base router is a favorite of many craftsmen because of its more simple more, compact and versatile design, and its relative ease of operation. In a fixed-base router, the motor is securely clamped into the base, and has a more light weight design making it easier to work and maneuver. Built for table mounting and more stationary routing, the fixed-base router is generally better for running slots, rabbeting, and edging or molding patterns than its top heavy, plunging brother. For plunge cuts, however, the fixed-base router must be tilted or angled into the workpiece which can be a difficult procedure to master. Because the base is not fully supported as the bit enters the wood, plunge cutting can be much more difficult with a fixed-base router. These routers have simple and accurate depth adjustment systems. They must, however, be stopped and reset in between each cut.

Unlike the fixed-based router who's configuration has changed relatively little over time, the plunge-base router is more innovatively designed. The plunge-cut router is built so its motor sits atop two spring-loaded posts; this trait allows for the vertical motion which makes the plunging action possible. The vertical movement of the router essentially "plunges" the router bit into your workpieces without ever tilting or lifting the tool enabling users to get directly into the center of a workpiece without any pre-drilling or acrobatics. With the plunge-base router, making through cuts, deep grooves and mortises is generally much easier than with its fixed-base counterpart; but although a plunge-base router is the best choice for applications requiring more and deeper cuts, it is much heavier and can be difficult to move and adjust. Understanding which router is right for you can be a long process. The information below will help you narrow down your search options and determine which router fits you best.

To begin, again, with the fixed-base router, Bosh offers a 2 HP (horse power) fixed-base router with a powerful 11 Amp motor and 25,000 RPM. This router is built with a precision centering design that makes it significantly easier to keep your bits on their intended cut line. The 8.3 lb tool is also designed with a macro and microfine bit adjustment system with resettable depth indicator for constant precision. This system provides always fast and accurate depth setting adjustment. Bosch has also incorporated a large 3-3/4 in base opening (6in. base diameter) plus a 2in. subbase opening to accept larger bits. For fast and easy template guide changes there is also a tool-free template guide adapter. The 1617 router has one-piece armature shaft for enhanced accuracy and long bit shank capacity.

Bosch's fixed-base router also has a right or left switch location for user preference and consistency and a new dust sealed power switch for enhanced durability. The router features hardwood handles and a 10ft. flexible rubber cord. The 1617 also includes the RA1161 fixed-base system which allows for bit height adjustment from above the router table. For additional convenience the fixed-base system also has threaded holes that allow it to be mounted to the router table (in Bosch's four hole pattern or the common three hole pattern). Bosch's 1617 fixed-base router includes ¼in. and ½in. S.R. collet chucks, a 16mm shaft wrench, 24mm collet nut wrench, tool-free template guide adapter, a chip shield, and fixed-base.

DEWALT offers a 1-3/4 HP fixed-base router with an 11 Amp motor, 24,500 RPM, and enough power to rout out the toughest woods. The tool has an advanced microfine depth adjustment ring that provides precise depth adjustments in minute 1/64in. increments and can be adjusted vertically for a permanent switch/cordset location. This vertical movement adjusts with up and down actions rather than spinning; since the entire router doesn't turn, the whole of the tool remains in the same position. For quick and tight-locking depth adjustments/base changes, the DW616 also has a strong and adjustable tool-free steel motor cam lock. A dust-deal keeps the switch free of dust and debris enhancing its performance, durability, and overall life. And with a right or left switch and cordset location, the user has the option to hold the switch in either the right or left hand increasing comfort and versatility. The tool's overmolded rubber handles, and low center of gravity also contribute to the router's best-in-class comfort, balance, and control. The router's cordset is detachable to offer serviceability and the ability to use the same motor pack for all bases.

For easier bit changes DEWALT has built this router with a flat top - and with quick release motor latches for fast and simple motor pack removal. The router also has long, self-releasing, eight-slotted collets for better bit retention and elimination of frozen, or stuck bits. A clear LEXAN subbase (polycarbonate material specially developed for strength and impact resistance) delivers enhanced base durability and bit visibility, and also accepts standard template guide bushings. The subbase additionally has a concentricity gauge for best-in-class routing accuracy. With a heavy-duty, precision machined, die-cast aluminum base and motor housing - the tool is supremely durable, and weighs only 7.1 lbs. DEWALT's DW616 fixed-base router includes a motor pack, fixed-base, concentricity gauge, ¼ and ½ in collets, and two wrenches. The router is also available to purchase as a kit (DW616K), which includes the above with DEWALT's heavy-duty kit box.

As for the plunge router, Makita offers a 3-1/4 in plunge-router with a powerful 15 Amp motor and variable speed option from 9,000 - 23,000 RPM. The router's variable speed option ensures greater routing precision and always accurate projects. The router also has a pivoting multiple depth adjustment knob with three preset plunge depths, and a top handle depth adjustment which sets the tool to any specific routing depth. For easy penetration into your workpiece, the router also has a 0 - 2-3/8 in plunge depth capacity. Makita has incorporated an electric brake for fast bit stoppage which also helps to prevent accidental marring of working materials. And, with an electronic speed control, the tool maintains constant speed even under load. The 3612C plunge-router also has a bit deflector to keep chips and debris away from the operator and workpiece. The tool weighs 13.2 lbs, is double insulated, and has a strong, all ball bearing construction to extend the tool's overall life. Having a shaft lock for quick and easy bit changes, and a soft start feature for smoother start-ups, Makita's plunge router is equip to handle all your plunge-routing needs. The 3612C includes a ¼ in collet sleeve, ½ in collet cone, and wrench.

DEWALT also offers a heavy-duty 3 HP plunge-router with a 15 Amp motor that utilizes advanced soft-start technology for always smooth operation. The motor is also full wave variable speed, and runs at 8,000 - 22,000 RPM. The DW625 runs with a constant speed, even under load, to ensure a fine, quality finish in all your projects, and its one piece motor and shaft spindle ensures perpendicularity and professional accuracy as you work. For always fast and accurate depth settings, the plunge-router also has a rack and pinion depth adjuster, magnified scale, and microfine depth adjustment mechanism. DEWALT's plunge-router has a spindle lock button that allows for simple one-wrench bit changes and a dust extraction adapter for a cleaner, safer work-space. The tool also has phosphorous bronze bushings that provide a smooth and accurate plunge, and a guide bushing adapter plate that accepts standard guide bushings - perfect for template work. DEWALT's DW625 plunge router weighs 11.2 lbs and includes a ¼ in and ½ in collet, dust extraction adapter, template guide bushing adapter, and wrench.

Both classes of router offer a different set of features and applications, and each individual tool has its own specifications. Each option, however, offers unique and professional finishes to your woodworking projects.

About the Author

As a student at the University of Utah, Mallory Kramer is currently earning an Englinsh degree. Three years ago she joined M&M Tool adding to their over 150 years combined experience; there, she specializes in tool parts and web communications. For over 60 years M&M Tool has provided professional service to the tool industry with parts, sales, and service to professionl level woodworking equipment, tools, and machinery.

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Router Bit

Router Bit

3" router bit?

Looking for straight router bit with a 3" cutting surface.

you'll never find one that wide.. you will have to use a shaper table
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How to Choose and Use a Router

The router is basically a simple portable tool, consisting of a very high-speed motor mounted vertically on a horizontal base plate. In this article I'll cover the types of routers available as well as the safe way to use them.

Parts Of The Router

Motor – High-speed; oil bearings often in accordance with the owners manual.

Switch – Turns router on and off.

Adjusting Collar – Used to lock bit or cutter to cut at a desired depth. A good idea is to always do a practice cut first.

Collet Nut – Used to tighten the bit into place.

Bit – The business end of the router; should be straight and sharp.

Base – Level surface on which the unit stands. Wax occasionally for friction-free movement.

Collet – Holds the bit. Keep it free of dirt and woo d chips.

Handles – Grasp firmly when using.

The router has a chuck on the lower edge of its shaft that holds keen-edged cutting bits that can be extended below the base to cut grooves, trim edges, form recesses, produce mouldings, and otherwise shapes wood on which the router is used.

The power of the routers motor determines how deep and how fast the tool can cut through wood. A low-powered router, however, can do many of the jobs a high-powered router can do, providing it does them in stages. It can make a deep cut, for example, by means of a number of shallow passes.

The router, with its cutter bit operating, may be lowered into the work from above, then moved along the path to be shaped or cut, or it may move into the work from the edge. The bits are set for depth of cut by an adjustment on the router body.

If the bit is to make a large recess, as in a meat platter, it may be mounted on a piece of plywood with the cutter projecting downward through a hole in the plywood support. Or you can buy accessories that enable the router to follow templates or guiding edges on the work,

Use Of The Router

Grooving – Use straight bit. Set depth. Adjust router guide or straightedge at desired width. If work is narrow, clamp extra pieces on both sides to make the base wider.

Dadoing – A cut across the width of a board is called a dado. It is used to make slots for shelves.

Rabbeting – Use straight bit. Set depth. If end and edge are to be cut, do the end first (across the grain) to prevent edge chipping. Make large rabbets with several passes of the bit.

Plunging – Can use a variety of bits designed just for the purpose of cutting a hole in wood. This technique is commonly used to cut holes in door blanks.

With some experience, you will be able to cut designs freehand or even write your name.

As motor shaft, chuck, and bit revolve clockwise, you should move the tool from left to right. For safety remember that the router shaft and bit turn at extremely high speed and cut very fast. Be sure the bit is locked tightly in the chuck, and always keep your fingers clear of it. Never change bits or cutters or make adjustments unless the cord is disconnected (if you are using a cordless router simply remove the battery). Merely switching the tool off is not enough, as switches can be accidently bumped and turned on.

That's all there is to it for now. I hope you have a better idea of how to pick and use a router. Choose the tool to suit your usage needs and above all be safe while operating it. In my next article I'll cover some of the different router bits, their purposes, and how to change them.

About the Author

Chuck Lunsford is the Internet Manager for Mytoolplace.com. He offers advice on how to select and use the right electric routers for the job. Visit our website and learn more about saving money on brand name discount power tools.

Router Bit