Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

A rebate joint, at its simplest, is a slightly stronger version of a butt joint it pro¬vides contact between the mating com¬ponents in two planes instead of one. A rebate is formed by removing a square or rectangular section across the end or along the edge of a piece of wood using hand or power tools.

Rebate joint
In the simplest type of rebate joint, the rebate is normally cut to half the wood thickness, leaving a projecting tongue equal to the thickness of the other, square-cut component. This type of rebate is often used on the lops of book¬cases and shelf unils where the top rests on and between the top ends of the sides. It may also be used for joining drawer fronts to and between the sides. At least half the end grain is hidden.

The joints are usually reinforced with pins, driven through the overlap in pairs at opposing angles - this is called dovetail nailing.

The rebate is usually cut with a rebate plane. This has a width guide and a depth stop and cleans the vertical edge of the cut as it is used. Short rebates in a board end, for example can be cut with a saw but care is needed.

Bare-faced halving
This is another type of rebate joint often used for fixing shelves in bookcases. The shelves have rebated ends with the projecting tongue lilting into the horizontal slots in the inner faces of the bookcase sides. The joint is made shoulder-up for strength. This joint may be used in drawers; a rebated back may be housed between the sides, or a front

Housing joints
Not all housing joints are rebated, but whether they are or not. they fall in two categories: the through housing, in which the construction is visible at both back and front edges of the joint; and the stop¬ped housing which from the front edge appears to be a simple butt joint.

Through housing
This is a simple joint to set out and cut. The shoulder lines of the housing (the thickness of the board to be housed apart) should be marked across the inner face of the board and squared over the edges. The depth of the housing - between one-third and half the thick¬ness - should be marked with a gauge. Then shoulders should be sawn and the waste removed with a chisel again work from each edge towards the centre. Finish the bottom of the housing with a router or a paring chisel.

Stopped housing
In this joint the cut should be taken only part way across the board, stopping about 20mm from the front edge. The end of the board to fit into it should be cut at the front corner to accommodate the 'stop'.

Mark shoulder lines across the inner face as far as the stop and on the back edge. Gauge the depth on the back edge too. To allow room to work the saw, the first 50mm of the housing back from the stop should be cut out with the chisel -used with its bevel down. Then saw shoulders, and chisel out the remaining waste and finish the bottom of the hous¬ing with a router if you have one.

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Woodwork Joints

Anatomical Structure of Woodwork Joints

Depending on the type of woodworking project you may have in mind, the following will help you decide on what appropriate woodwork joint to use. With the advent of new tools and machineries, traditional joints have evolved in various types. These woodwork joints differ in styles but have the ultimate purpose of making a strong and stable woodwork.

1. Square Butt Joint. Simply known as the butt joint, it is the most basic joint in joining two pieces of timber relying solely on glue to stick it together. The advantage of this is its being quick and easy to make. It is very useful in making boxes and picture frames. However, since the end of the timber where glue is applied is porous which absorbs most of the glue, it becomes difficult to hold the timber together. On the other hand, this can be strengthened by using screws or pins as support.

2. Mitre or Miter Joint. This is a joint created by sawing one end of two parts to be joined at an angle of 45° to form a 90o angle corner. This is more often used in making picture frames than butt joints. Although this popular method of joining is cheap, it requires accurate cutting to achieve its best strength and visual appeal.

3. Dado Joint. Also known as the housed joint, this type of joint is most popularly used in making bookcases, shelves, and drawers . Unlike butt joints, this joint does not need the benefit of any glue or screw to hold it in place. To make a dado joint, a cut in one piece of wood receives the end of the other. It is much stronger than the butt joint and has a more professional appeal.

4. Dowel Joint. To make a dowel joint, drill aligning holes in each piece of wood then by using glue attach the dowels in place for a tight joint. To achieve high accuracy, it requires a dowelling jig and bits. Use a jig and a drill press to obtain straight holes with uniform depth.

5. Mortise-and-Tenon Joint. This joint is used to Join two members perpendicularly. A rectangular projection from the end of one piece called the tenon fits snugly into the mortise cut in the second piece. This strong and traditional joint can be made even stronger by adding a peg. This is commonly used in antique furniture building.

6. Tongue-and-Groove Joint. Also known as the finger joint, this joint allows for wood shrinkage, it's great for floors and paneling. Long tapered tongues or fingers that interlock join two pieces of timber lengthwise. A high powered router is used to cut a groove in the edge of one piece and a tongue on the other to fit into the groove.

7. Through-Dovetail Joint. This is one of the most stylish joints available, but also one that requires additional patience and more accuracy to cut. The interlocking cut of the wood makes it really strong plus gives more visual interest. This type of joint is used in the manufacture of superior furniture.

8. Lap Joint. This is made by laying one piece on top of another. This can be used either in an angle or lengthwise joint. Lap joints can be made manually with a saw and chisel, on a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, or with a router and a straight bit. Meanwhile, there is a variation of a lap joint which is the half lap joint. This is when half of the thickness from each piece is removed. To make a half lap joint, several cuts half the depth of the material is made while the excess is removed with a chisel.

Now that you know most of the different types of woodwork joints and you can now determine which is best suited for your next woodwork project, there is no reason why you shouldn’t start working on it.

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Home improvement and woodworking shows may cause more harm than good for some homeowners. Some Canadians, for example, are choosing their dream renovations rather than remodeling within their budget and financial reality. A recent survey showed that sixty percent of respondents who recently took on a home renovation actually developed a budget prior to beginning. However, twenty-seven percent spent more than budgeted. Sticking to a home improvement budget is, definitely, a challenge especially when television shows and magazines influence the desire for the latest appliances and trendy décor. Though the intention is good and many home renovators want to stay within their budget, it is often difficult which can cause major headaches once the project total is realized.

Many individuals considering a home improvement project do not appropriately anticipate extra costs involved with projects. Good financial planning and the inclusion of extra costs can reduce the stress of renovations. It is often suggested to secure financing prior to beginning the project, such as a home line of credit for instance. The benefit of a line of credit is that you do not have to use it, but it does provide some security in knowing the funding is available when you are faced with unexpected expenses.

Attempts by homeowners to renovate their home into their "fantasy home" as seen on television could be turning DIY remodeling projects into divorce, D.I.V.O.R.C.E., according to a study from British Gas' website http://house.co.uk. Eighty percent of families admitted that they have had arguments over unsuccessful renovations. For example, two in three families state that they have had disagreements over color schemes, which has also been cited as the most likely reason for a break-up. Other top reasons for DIY home improvement disputes include an unfinished job, lack of time for the project, the related mess or disruption, the cost, stress, lack of knowledge of home improvement projects and gender differences of opinion.

One way to help avoid DYI disputes is to call a professional contractor or skilled tradesman. Homeowners spend millions in an attempt to fix their DIY remodeling disasters, when the problems could have been avoided in the first place. Many think that performing the work themselves may save money. Though this may be true in some cases, DIY projects can also result in spending extra money in the end as well as many headaches, hassle and a lengthier project. This is something to consider when contemplating renovations on your home. This particular survey on British Gas' website was conducted to evaluate consumers' attitudes toward do-it-yourself home projects. http://House.co.uk provides a national directory of reliable tradesman by HomePro, Ltd., a leading online provider of trade professionals.

Hand tools are portable devices which are used for sawing, chopping and other manual operations. Different types of hand tool are now being produced for your convenience.

Hand tools serve a variety of functions. It comes in a multiple of sizes and shapes. Virtually, every kind of tool can be a hand tool. This is although many people have assumed them as power tools. Several hand tools cannot be safely or easily converted into power tools. This is specifically for the chisel while others have the saw and hammer.

A multi-tool is a hand tool that incorporates some tools into a single portable device. Artisans in manual operation handle the following:
? Sawing
? Chopping
? Forging
? Chiseling
? Filing

Hand tools are easy and safe to use. This is why many workers are still using them. In some cases, hand tools are faster than machines. Many hand tools are automatic and are generally powered by electricity. Always remember to clean your hand tools before and after using it. This is to avoid making it rusty and dull. In order to remove the tar and similar substances, clean them with turpentine or other material spirit. After cleaning, dry the tool and apply some light machine oil.

Different types of hand tools
? Drills - Drills are a somewhat boring type of hand tool, which is used for creating holes in walls as well as in wood. There are some types of drills such as a hammer drill, air drill, press drill, percussion drill and power drill.

? Screwdriver - This type of hand tool is used by loosening or tightening a screw. This is done by the aid of the tip of the screwdriver. It comes in different types and sizes and some of which are flared and slotted.

? Sander - This is used for smoothing out wooden products. There four types of sanders such as the air sander, sheet sander, orbital sander and the bench sander.

? Spanner - The spanner is a hand tool used to loosen and tighten the bolts and nuts. It has different varieties such as open-ended C spanner, offset ring spanner, ring spanner, adjustable spanner, tap spanner, box spanner, and split ring spanner.

? Wrench - This hand tool is used for gripping the fasteners that are loosened or tightened through the jaws of the wrench. The types of wrenches include the pipe wrench, torque wrench, footprint wrench and the strap wrench, along with the mole wrench and the stilton wrench.

? Clamps - These tools are used for holding instruments throughout processes like woodworking, carpentry and so on. Like any other hand tool, it has different types such as the G clamps, power clamps, pipe clamps, web clamps, action clamps, mitre clamps and much more.

? Hammer - It is used for the striking force in order to break or to deform an object. The types of hammer include the claw hammer, power hammer, sledge hammer as well as the bell pein, cross pein pin hammer and much more.

? Saw- This is a hand tool that is more commonly used by carpenters in order to finish their work efficiently. Saws also have different varieties which are for different purposes such as plywood saws, Ryoba saw, utility saw, azebiki saw and much more

Tips for buying different hand tools
? Buy the best hand tool that you can afford.
? Buy some versions or sizes of the same tools to ensure you have the right hand tools for your right job.
? Use a hand tool for the work it was manufactured for its performance.
? Make sure that the handles are fixed firmly onto the tool-working end.
? Plan your job before you start buying hand tools.
? Verify all the types of hand tools and compare its features.

Most people think "power tools" when they think of woodworking, but hand tools are also important for woodworking. If you are just starting out in woodworking, you want to make sure you get the right tools, and not spend a lot on unnecessary items.

You will need a number of hand tools to properly shape wood:

Clamps-It is a good idea to have a variety of sizes, but they do not cost much, and they last a long time, so used ones will serve as well as new ones.

Bench chisels-Get about 6 of these, ranging from one quarter of an inch to one inch.

Wire brushes-Good, stiff ones

Saws-At least a back saw, a tenon and a dovetail saw. They get a lot of use, so if you buy them used, make sure the teeth are not damaged, but you can have the sharpened.

Files-Start with a ten inch bastard mill file; you can add others later.

Hammer-A good quality 16 ounce hammer.

Mallet-Needed for driving chisels

Allen wrenches-Various sizes

Screwdrivers-A set of various sizes in both Phillips head and flat head.

Awls-Marking and Scratching

Pliers-Channel lock and Needle nose

Scrapers-A paint scraper and a hand scraper

Miscellaneous-T bevel, tape measure, steel ruler, level, putty knife, utility knife and protractor

The ideal way to set up a woodworking shop is to buy a small quantity of good quality tools rather than a lot of cheap hand tools. You'll only end up paying more in the long run if you buy cheap tools, since they will have to be replaced often. Brand names to look for are Armstrong, Stanley and Snap On.

You can buy used tools if you look for ones in good condition. There are many antique or German made hand tools on sale. Hand tools last longer than power tools, since they are no mechanical parts to cause problems, so older ones are not a problem. Older hand tools are also frequently of better quality than newer ones.

Many hand tools can be found at yard or garage sales, but you may have to search a lot to get everything you need. Check the newspapers for ones that are offering tools (sellers frequently mention the types of merchandise they have)and visit as many yard sales as you can to build your collection.

Another excellent source for used hand tools is flea markets. Since there are so many more tables, you can cover a lot more ground than you can at garage or yard sales. Just remember that flea market merchants are used to haggling over price, so don't pay the first price they quote, you will probably be paying too much.

At both yard sales and flea markets, you can get a better bargain if you wait till the end of the day, since the sellers may then be happy just to get rid of their stuff. Another hint is that if someone is selling a number of tools, they may be willing to give you a quantity discount.