Hahahaha! Iv got that exact drill! And I bought it from lowes in Johnson City in America! And I cant find a 230v charger here! -So I have to plug it into a 110v transformer onsite.

You can buy 1 there and you can use it over here just chop the 2pin american plug off the end and put a 16amp 110v plug onto it the hertz over there are different (60hz) compared to our (50hz) but that doesnt make any difference

Makita LXT702 18V LXT Lithium Ion 7 Pc Tool Combo Kit US $702.99

Makita 18V LXT Lithium Ion Cordless Drill Driver BDF451 US $87.99

Makita BL1830 LXT 18V Li Ion 30ah Lithium Battery New 2PK For BHP452 BJR182 US $159.95

New Makita BJR182 18V 18 Volt LXT Lithium Ion Reciprocating Saw US $59.00

Makita BSS611 18V 18 Volt LXT Lithium Ion 6 1 2 Cordless Circular Saw US $69.00

MAKITA BL1830 LXT LITHIUM ION 18V BATTERIES BATTERY US $69.00

1 New Makita BL1830 18 Volt 18V LXT Lithium Ion Battery BL 1830 US $65.00

Makita DC18RA LXT Li ion Battery Charger Brand New for BL1830 BL1815 BL1430 US $41.95

Makita BML185 18V LXT 18 Volt Lithium Ion Cordless Work Light Flashlight US $29.00

2 New Makita BL1830 18 Volt 18V LXT Lithium Ion Batteries BL 1830 US $132.50

New Makita BHP452 18V LXT Lithium Ion Hammer Drill US $49.00

New Makita 18V LXT Lithium Ion Angle Grinder BGA452 US $99.99

1 New Makita LXT BL1830 18 Volt 18V Lithium Ion Battery US $94.99

New Makita 18V LXT Lithium Ion Impact Driver BTD141 US $76.99

MAKITA LXT211 18V LXT Lithium Ion 2 Pc Combo Kit US $177.51

MAKITA 18V 18 VOLT LXT LITHIUM ION HAMMER DRILL BHP452 US $37.03

MAKITA 18V 18 VOLT LXT LITHIUM ION IMPACT DRIVER BTD141 US $46.00

Makita 18V LXT Lithium Ion Cordless Hammer Drill BHP452 US $34.00

2 MAKITA LXT 18 VOLT 18V LITHIUM ION BATTERY BL1830 US $145.00

2 MAKITA LXT 18V LITHIUM ION BATTERY BL1815 US $90.00

Makita 18V Impact Driver LXT BTD141 Lithium Li Ion BTD141Z Wrench Drill Cordless US $150.00

Makita Battery BL1830 Two LXT Lithium 18V Li ion 30ah Battery Brand New US $161.95

Makita BTW251 18 Volt 1 2 Inch LXT Lithium Ion Cordless Impact Wrench Kit US $350.00

MAKITA BL1430 LXT LITHIUM ION 144V BATTERIES BATTERY US $119.00

Makita Bare Tool BSS611Z 18 Volt LXT Lithium Ion Cordless 6 1 2 Circular Saw US $99.99

Make a Better Impact: How an Impact Driver Will Improve Your Driving Capabilities

The power and speed of an impact driver are absolutely unbeartable. For building jobs from decking to home-additions, no job site should be with out one. Where driving screws is concerned, the impact driver is an unparalled force, a titan that will push you and your projects into sweet, triumphant victory. Every woodworker knows the task of screw driving can be trying; you need maximum power and speed and a tool that will secure rather than strip your screws. For this, the impact driver is the missing piece. An impact driver with will put a spring in the step of craftmen everywhere knowing their lives are that much more effecient.

With more force than any other tool, impact drivers are expertly designed to drve screws better. Faster and stronger that standard power drills, they generally deliver a seriously powerful, brutal, forceful 1,300 in/lbs of torque. These tools are designed for durability and conquer even the most daunting driving applications. Even with all this power, its serious strength and brute force, the impact driver still has the accuracy, the finess - if you will- to loosen and tighten screws with out stripping heads. So please, I implore you - say "goodbye" to inadequate, inefficient driving methods and welcome the well qualified, brilliantly engineered impact driver into your life.

If you are a professional craftsmen seeking to improve your driving capabilities and make your work day more efficient, please read on. The Following summarizes DEWALT and Makita impact drivers and a Makita angle impacter driver for close quarter driving.

DEWALT Heavy-Duty ¼" 18v Impact Driver: DEWALT products have long been known for their exceptional power tools and M&M Tool is excited about their 18v impact driver. This tool packs an authoritative punch along with all the features we have come to expect from DEWALT.

The DC825KA features a frameless motor, a durable magnesium gear case, and an all metal transmission to extend the tool's overall life and durability. It is also built in a compact and comfortable size; this light weight and compact design allows access into tighter areas as well as reducing user fatigue weighing only 4.6lbs. For ultra comfort and control, DEWALT has also added a textured anti-slip comfort grip. The driver delivers a forceful 1,330 in/lbs of torque to better perform a wide range of fastening applications; and with a heavy-duty impacting mechanism to direct that torque to fasteners, the tool packs superior driving power without kickback. Running at 0-2,400 RPM and 0-2,700 IPM the driver is capable of much faster, tougher driving applications.

The DEWALT DC825KA 18v impact driver comes with a dependable one hour charger, two 18v XRP batteries, and a heavy-duty kit box for additional security and convenience. The tool is also backed by DEWALT's good name, their one year free service contract, and a three year factory warranty on the tool.

Makita 18v LXT Lithium Ion cordless Impact Driver: Makita products have been a leader in the tool industry for nearly 90 years. Their experience and history of exceptional design and engineering has maintained Makita's reputation as a giant in the power tool industry. M&M Tool is especially excited about their 18v impact driver. This tool truly packs a wallop and incorporates some new and innovative features.

The tool's Makita built maximum torque motor delivers 1,330 in/lbs of serious torque in an efficient and compact size. In fact the tool is 50 percent more compact than most others in its class weighing only 3.4lbs. This design lessens operator fatigue, and the tool's ergonomic shape evens pressure throughout for comfortable, easy control. Makita also incorporated a built-in LED light to better illuminated work spaces. The tool is also built with a high quality heat-hardened steel proprietary hammer and anvil to increase it overall life and durability. Additionally, the tool has an ultra convenient electric brake for immediate stops to help minimize kickback.

Makita's 18v impact driver utilizes lithium ion battery technology and an exclusive charging system that optimizes battery life and allows for 2.5x more cycles. Makita's exclusive 30 minute rapid charger communicates with a chip built-in to the battery to optimize its performance. Throughout the charging process the battery and charger communicate to maximize battery life by actively controlling current, voltage and temperature within the battery. Makita's BTD141 18v lithium ion cordless impact driver includes two lithium ion batteries, Makita's rapid optimum battery charger, a tool belt hook, plastic battery cover, and tool case for extra security. The tool is also backed with Makita's quality reputation, three year factory warranty on the tool, and one warranty on the batteries and charger.

Makita 18v LXT Lithium Ion cordless Angle Impact Driver: Although Makita's angle driver packs a little less punch than its brothers, this tool truly stands alone with its sleek, slender design and superior versatility. The Makita 18v angle impact driver is built with a uniquely compact, right angle design that is ideal for fastening and loosening in tight spaces.

The tool is powered by a hard-hitting Makita built motor and impact mechanism that delivers 531in/lbs of maximum torque and 0-3,000 impacts per minute (IPM). The tool comes with a variable speed mechanism (0-2,000 RPM) for a huge range of applications from auto and home repairs to professional installation. For enhanced comfort on the job, the driver also has a soft grip handle and a large, convenient paddle switch for easier operation. Additionally, the tool has an over 12in extension capacity providing the extra reach necessary to work in deep and tight spaces. Makita has also designed this power tool with a built-in LED light to illuminate work spaces to ensures operator precision. To maximize convenience Makita has also added belt clip mounts on either side of the tool, and a phosphorescent bumper ring, like a beacon, to help locate the tool in dark work areas. Makita's 18v angle impact driver utilizes the same Makita battery and charger technology as the BTD041 providing superior power and battery life.

No tool compares to Makita's uniquely compact, convenient and versatile angle impact driver. It is powerful, durable and efficient - and because of its slim cordless design and over one-foot extension, the tool has superior maneuverability. With this driver kit Makita includes a tool belt clip (with screw), a convenient and secure contractor bag, two 18v lithium ion 3.0ah batteries, a 30 minute rapid optimum charger, and a plastic battery cover. The tool is also backed with a three year factory warranty, and one year warranty on the batteries and charger. Makita's impact drivers are also available to purchase separate from their kits (BTL061Z, BTD141Z).

About the Author

Mallory Kramer is a student at the University of Utah where she is currently earning a degree in English. Three years ago she joined M&M Tool adding to their over 150 years combined experience. For over 60 years M&M Tool has been providing exceptional service and sales of industry leading brands such as DEWALT and Makita. Please contact M&M Tool for expert knowledge of these brands and many others.

Lxt Lithium Ion

Post from: Woodworking Training

Lxt Lithium Ion

Carpenters, what cordless set do you recommend?

I have just started woodworking and would like to start a cordless collection. I'll start with the basics: drill, circular, palm sander, router. Can you all recommend a good brand. I know Dewalt is top of the line but it is out of my price range. My father has a small set of Ryobi 18v and seems happy with it. Is this a good set? Please also recommend some other necessary tools. I have several hand tools: screwdrivers, plyers, clamps.
I'll probably start building simple projects: bookshelves, a ladder for a bunk bed, a child's drafting table.

There is no blanket brand that is best for every single tool. And to go cordless with every tool is not wise. No, Dewalt is not top of the line, they just have a rep. This is my list on many years experience.

Drills - Panasonic, yes Panasonic, makes the finest drills around. Pick up one of the cordless combo packs with a drill and impact driver and you will be astounded at the performance and accuracy of the tools. They are the only drill maker that delivers torque at even levels no matter what speed the chuck is spinning. In other words, other brands derive higher torque by spinning faster which makes for sloppy work if you dig in too deep or start off at top speed. These are the best cordless drills and priced near Milwaukees. I gave my Dewalt cordless to my Dad after discovering Panasonics. Don't buy a hammer drill unless you are doing extensive work with concrete drilling. If they are out of your price range, go Craftsman as their replacement batteries are dirt cheap. Keep a decent corded drill around just in case.

Circ Saw - Many fine brands out there, but Bosch fits my hand very well. Pick up the saw and see how it fits in your hand. Circ. saws must be comfortable or you will make sloppy cuts. If you need high power and are cutting very thick pieces of wood a worm drive Skil Saw is the way to go. Comfort and weight is key and Bosch works best for me in this dept. Cordless circ saws are a waste of money in my opinion. The battery life is horrific on any brand I have used. If these are too much money for you (Bosch circ saw is around $110), then I really don't know what to say. Just buy anything that is comfortable and in your price range.

Sanders - Porter Cable makes great sanders. Again, stay clear of cordless in this department as the batteries just can't keep up. If you are working on a tight budget, skip the sander all together and spend more on better saws and drills. Elbow grease replaces any sander at 1/100th the price.

Router - Porter Cable again in this dept. Honestly, I won't go near any other brand router. The true cost of a router begins AFTER you buy one. Bit sets are very expensive and you may be better off buying trim that matches the type of edges you want. Cut them to size and glue on the corners.

Those are the tools you listed. Cordless tools have advantages when used properly. Anything that runs for long periods of time (sander, jig saw, etc) will be a huge disappointment to you. If you absolutely must have one of those cordless combo sets and Dewalt is too expensive, go with Craftsman or Ryobi.

If all you have is some hand tools and you want to make furniture properly, be ready to shell out at least $1000 on power tools. It sounds like the things you want to work on are indoor projects. For the projects you listed, skip the circ saw and buy a miter saw.

Making things for around the house is very rewarding so keep at it. For shelves, go buy a $100 miter saw (Lowes has a Hitachi for $100 I believe as does Ryobi and Craftsman), wood glue, a Craftsman cordless drill (get corded if you do not already have one, cheap cordless drills can't match the power of a corded drill), a carpenters square, a level, and some screws. Sand the pieces first, assemble, and finish with some stain. Build up your skills with the basics first and things will make more sense when you go shopping for power tools. Have fun!

Cordless Screwdriver 36 Volt Rechargable with Acc US $28.47

DeWalt 12V Cordless Screwdriver Impact Wrench and work light kit 3 8 US $299.00

AS IS CRAFTSMAN EVOLV 32017088 CORDLESS SCREWDRIVER US $1.99

LOT 2 CORDLESS SCREWDRIVERS 36 volt Ni Cad Adjustable US $.99

LOT of 3 Black and Decker VersaPak Cordless Power Tools Screwdriver Sander Drill US $19.95

35 pc Cordless Electric Screwdriver Screw Driver Bits US $19.99

CORDLESS SCREWDRIVER MODEL 2105 REVERSIBLE US $2.00

Milwaukee 6546 1 2 speed cordless screwdriver 24 Volt US $40.98

NEW Black Decker 9078 36 Volt Cordless Screwdriver US $19.99

Milwaukee Cordless 24 Volt Screwdriver 6546 6 US $63.25

Milwaukee 12V Cordless M12 Screwdriver 2401 22 US $81.00

Cordless Screwdriver with 11 bits by Trademark Tools US $7.48

BLACK AND DECKER CORDLESS SCREWDRIVER 2​4 VOLTS BNIB GREAT GIFT FOR HANDYMAN US $8.88

Craftsman 4 Volt Lithium Ion Cordless 1 4 In ScrewdriverREDUCED US $27.99

Milwaukee Cordless 24 Volt Screwdriver US $71.00

Black And Decker Cordless Screwdriver 36 Volt US $15.00

48 Volt Cordless SCREWDRIVER DRILL Kit NEW US $14.99

skil cordless boar gun 3 8 drill screwdriver model 2016 vintage US $99.00

48V Cordless Screwdriver with 100 Bits Sockets ATD US $25.95

Black Decker Pivot Plus Articulating Head 6 Volt Nicad Cordless Screwdriver US $40.42

DURATOOL CORDLESS RECHARGEABLE SCREWDRIVER with 24 BITS CHARGER CASE 48V US $24.95

HUSKY 13 Piece PowerTek Precision SCREWDRIVER Set NIP CORDLESS Power Tool NEW US $11.99

18 VOLT CORDLESS DRILL SET 22 DRILL BITS 33 PIECE SCREWDRIVER SET 18 SOCKETS US $49.00

Black Decker PD360 cordless rechargeable battery screwdriver US $5.00

Black and Decker Cordless Screw Driver Not working for parts US $.99

Anything You Can Think of Cordless Black

What do you think of when you think of cordless Black & Decker? You may think of small cordless screwdrivers or wimpy tools you only find at discount stores. While I don't think of cordless Black & Decker tools as industrial grade tools, they really have a wide variety of tools that you will find handy around the house, cabin or lake home.

The cordless Black & Decker lineup contains everything from you basic cordless screwdriver, to cordless drills, cordless scissors, tools for yard work including cordless mowers, hedge trimmers, weed trimmers and more. I have one of the cordless Black & Decker weed trimmers and while it doesn't have the power of my gas weed trimmer, it has more than enough to trim up around the house and it always starts. The gas trimmers that I have had typically work for a couple of seasons and then I have to rebuild the carb to keep it running.

One of the really neat tools I noticed in the cordless Black & Decker line is a chainsaw called the Alligator. This tool is a small cordless chainsaw with a clamp below the blade that bites down on the wood you are cutting. It really does look like an alligator! They also have a regular cordless chainsaw and a chainsaw that you can extend up on a pole to cut off limbs a little higher up. Again, these cordless Black & Decker tools don't look like something you would use every day but still, I they have some tools I have never even seen.

Maybe you are looking for a cordless screwdriver for you hobby shop or your camper. Again the cordless Black & Decker line up has several for you to chose from. You can get a very inexpensive tool that will be handy here and there or if you want something with a little more power, try their lithium screw drivers. Lithium tools offer more run time and power in a lighter weight tool that can charge very fast. Some of these tools have LED lights on them making them handy when working in dark corners, maybe like removing hinges inside a cabinet.

They also handle a variety of drills. While I still prefer having my heavy duty Bosch drill at my side, a smaller less powerful drill will work just fine around the house. While most of the cordless Black & Decker drills are fairly reasonably priced, you can afford to have one in your camper, your cabin or lake home. Many of times these tools are more than ample for simple odd jobs around the home like hanging pictures or drilling a small hole to run a cord or something else simple like this. If you do want a little more power, the cordless Black & Decker line includes 24 volt tools available in a combo kit.

One other tool that I guess you can call a cordless Black & Decker tool is their self adjusting wrench. This crescent wrench adjusts to the bolt head with just a touch. I have read a couple of reviews and while some have been able to break them, many felt they were very handy around the house.

So there you have it, a few thoughts on the cordless Black & Decker tool line up. This really doesn't do their line up justice. You just won't believe the cordless Black & Decker tools available.

About the Author

You can find all the
cordless Black & Decker
line up at www.protoolguide.com

Cordless Screwdriver

Post from: Woodworking Training

Cordless Screwdriver

How do I use a random orbit polisher to wax my car?

I bought a polisher thing and I want to know how I go about using it on the car? I tried using the wax that i would normally use on the car by hand and it seems to be absorbed into the sponge on the polisher..... what products do i need to get to do this. I have seen it done with one of these things at the ocal car wash and I want to know how I can utilize it. Thanks

did you let the wax to haze over or dry some before removing. if your taking it off before dried your defeating the purpose!

Random Orbit Sander DEWALT US $19.95

Porter Cable Double Insulated Random Orbit 6 inch Sander Model 7336 US $68.00

CHAMBERLAIN WAXMASTER W109 9 INCH RANDOM ORBIT WAXER POLISHER WITH EXTRA PADS US $5.99

DeWALT Variable Speed Random Orbit Sander 5 D26453 US $30.00

Ingersoll Rand 300g 6 Inch Air Random Orbit Sander US $52.00

{ RIDGID 5 random orbit sander } US $55.00

Bosch 1295DVS 5 Palm Variable Speed Random Orbit Sander Polisher US $20.00

Black Decker Heavy Duity 11 Random Orbit Automotive Series Polisher LQQK US $29.67

WEN SYSTEM 4 RANDOM ORBIT BUFFER POLISHER 4 inch US $39.99

DeWALT D26451K 5 Heavy Duty Random Orbit Sander Kit US $33.35

5 Inch Random Orbital Palm Sander 9000RPM Air Tool Orbit Function Durable HD US $34.25

DeWalt 5 Random Orbit Palm Sander Kit D26453K New Sealed US $37.55

Black Decker Random Orbit Sander US $29.99

5 INCH RANDOM ORBITAL PALM SANDER AIR TOOL ORBIT TOOLS Automotive Body Sanding US $29.95

Black Decker Random Orbit Sander R0410S US $35.22

WEN RANDOM ORBIT 10” CAR WAXER POLISHER US $19.95

Porter Cable 343K 5 Random Orbit Sander in hard sided case US $19.99

Porter Cable 7424XP 6 Right Angle Random Orbit Polisher US $82.00

RIDGID R2611 6 RANDOM ORBIT SANDER NEW IN BOX US $124.00

DeWALT D26451KR Factory Reconditioned D26451K 5 Random Orbit Sander Kit US $54.99

New 5 inch Random Orbit PSA Backup Disk Pad US $4.99

5 in Porter Cable HD Random Orbit Sander Model 7334 with extras US $42.00

DeWALT D26451K Heavy Duty Random Orbit Sander US $39.99

Box of 25 Dewalt DW4036 6 Random Orbit Sanding Discs 220 GRIT NEW SALE 75 OFF US $.99

RYOBI 18 VOLT RANDOM ORBIT SANDER P410 US $1.00

Major Woodworking Tools

Woodworking is a craft of creating furniture or anything that is made of wood. The most common types of wood used for woodworking are hardwood, softwood, and the most recent man made materials like MDF and plywood. While traditional hand tools can execute well for woodworking, the need for power tools and modern equipments are also vital for further productivity and convenience.

Traditional woodworkers normally use manual hand tools as well as simple measuring tools. In spite of that, they can accurately create beautiful furniture. However, traditional skills and tools require much more time to complete a project. With this concern, many woodworkers have shifted to utilizing modern woodworking machines and more accurate measuring tools. These modern tools and machines offer woodworkers ease of doing even the toughest projects in less time. With these features, woodworkers can perform with increased productivity and greater precision.

It is a fact that woodworkers must have the proper tools whether it is hand tools or power tools so that outstanding wood crafts can be built. It is also vital that they learn the proper way of using these tools. Below are some of the essential tools needed for woodworking shops. We start with the most basic to the most hi-end power tools, which a woodworker ought to have.

Hammers

Hammers are mostly used by traditional woodworkers. This tool is a general woodworking tool and is necessary especially when applying nails for crafting furniture. This can also be used in making jigs for your workshop. For quality woodworking, a small dead-blow hammer having a weight of one to two pounds is recommended. A rubber mallet hammer is also needed for accomplishing finishing touches crucial to avoiding scratches on the wood.

Hand Plane

Hand plane tools are frequently manipulated to remove small wood surpluses in finishing cuts of wood. This tool can also be adjusted depending on the required cut. It can be used to take away extra glue from the wood joints for a smoother finishing.

Hand Saw

Although there are power tools for cutting wood, it is still best if you have a hand saw. This tool is very flexible and can do a lot of general cutting requirements. It can be utilized to cut braces or complete some trimming.

Level

This tool is substantially functional for hanging cabinets and tool holders.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers are not only valuable to woodworking but they are versatile tools, as well. Although rarely used in woodworking applications, screwdrivers are still an indispensable tool for a workshop. They are ideal for adjusting or tightening other power tools and can also be used in fixing screws in furniture and cabinetry.

Chisels

Even if you have the most advanced power tools, there will always be a project that will necessitate the application of chisels. These tools are available in different sizes and are good for multi purpose treatments. They are just right for rounding corners, glue removal, as a scraper, and a lot more functions.

Table Saw

Generally, table saws are the heavily exploited among all machines in a woodworking shop. These machines are significantly advantageous in cutting large quantities and sizes of wood pieces in less time. This too is considered the backbone of a woodworking shop, so make sure to purchase the best, which would last for long years.

Band Saw

These types of saw machines are great for accurately cutting curves and intricate forms of cuts.

Radial Arm Saw

This tool is handled for manifold cutting applications such as cross cutting, stock ripping, and bevel cutting. These are joined by miters, rabbets, and dadoes. It can also be applied as a guide for routers.

Power Drill

A power drill is elemental and has the power for most drilling job. This tool is handy and is useful for drilling hard to reach areas of a project, as well. This power tool comes with a modifiable speed.

Drill Press

The drill press can be employed for drilling holes in stocks of wood with precision. This machine comes with adjustable clamps, which hold the stock into place. Drill press machines can either be for table tops or floors.

Random Orbital Sander

The orbital sander can perform sanding with random motion and thus, reduces sanding markings as compared to palm sanders. The sanding disks can be effortlessly replaced with proper grits required for a task.

About the Author

For more information on Wood Working Tools and Lathe.Please visit our website.

Random Orbit

Post from: Woodworking Training

Random Orbit

Porter Cable 7424 pads?

Hi guys i got a Porter Cable 7424 now im looking for some accessories for it. I need atleast 3 different pads, pad conditioner, and pad backing. Looking for the cheapest you can find. Who ever can get me a link to the cheapest ill thank you forever. Thanks!

Are u in australia?Just go to www.waxit.com.au that guy got everything

Porter Cable Router Wrenches US $7.29

PORTER CABLE 978 DRILL DRIVER and PORTER CABLE 877 HAMMER DRILL CORDLESS 144v US $50.00

PORTER CABLE 12v DRILL DRIVER CHARGER 8501 US $13.00

Ryobi144 voilt 3 8 drillcordless skill saw and a 18 volt porter cable sawsall US $7.50

Porter Cable 12V Cordless Drill driver US $35.00

Porter Cable 18V Battery Charger Multi Volt PCMVC R US $15.50

porter cable or rockwell disc sanders old school commercial ALL X LNT COND US $285.00

Porter Cable Bammer Cordless Nail Gun US $40.00

Porter Cable Router Wrench Milwaukee A22709 42596 US $14.30

18V PORTER CABLE CORDLESS SAWZALL IMPACT DRIVER PLUS UTILITIY BAG US $54.99

Porter Cable Double Insulated Bayonet Saw Model 7549 US $10.51

Porter Cable 309 Laminate Trimmer US $50.00

Porter Cable Double Insulated Random Orbit 6 inch Sander Model 7336 US $68.00

Porter Cable Router Model 6302 complete with accessories US $48.67

PORTER CABLE PC186CS 18V CIRCULAR SAW NO RESERVE US $7.50

Porter Cable Stikit Sander Pad Model 13597 for 330 Finish Sander US $5.05

PORTER CABLE 6 GALLON150PSI AIR COMPRESSOR C2005 US $36.53

Nice PORTER CABLE MODEL 555 BISCUIT JOINER IN METAL CASE FREE SHIPPING US $79.00

Porter Cable 4 x 24 belt 120 grit sandpaper 2 boxs of 5 belts sander tool NIB US $32.00

Porter Cable Detail Profile Sander Model 444 with Sand Paper US $49.99

PORTER CABLE 5PC BRAD NAILER KIT US $159.95

Porter Cable Finish Brad Nailer Crown Narrow Stapler US $135.00

porter cable 1 3 8 nailer US $55.00

PORTER CABLE CROWN STAPLER US $70.00

Porter Cable 5043 Magic Router Guide US $35.00

4 Best Finishing Sanders in the Business

Finishing sanders are used to produce the smoothest, finest finishes to your craft and carpentry projects. Helping craftsmen achieve the most seamless, professional results, finish sanders do a seriously good deed to the tool and woodworking community. To get the most unwaveringly, brilliantly smooth results, however, there are four finish sanders from Festool and Porter-Cable that truly cast shadows over the competition.

Festool brings craftsmen the Rotex RO 150 and the RTS 400 EQ finishing sanders - both of which are tools that are truly difficult to put down. The Rotex RO 150 is a heavy-duty, high-performance sander with the power to tackle any application and the refinement to do it with delicacy and style. It features a simple dual-sanding system which allows operators to sand in a random orbital mode for uncommonly fine sanding or switch into a gear-driven, aggressive mode for rapid stock removal. A (detachable) auxiliary handle provides you with greater control during these more aggressive sanding jobs. With variable speed control, constant speed under load, and thermal and over-load protection the sander can aggressively or delicately match each application. Despite this big power, however, the tool weighs only 5 lbs, boasts very low vibration, and has a superior ergonomic design to bring craftsmen a tough package that's also simple and surprisingly pleasant to work with. The sander's gearbox is completely enclosed to protect the bearing unit from dust and debris; this vastly extends the life of the tool and its components. Additionally, a jet-stream dust extraction system ensures your work environment is a clean and safe space.

Festool continues innovating the finish sander with the RTS 400 EQ flat surface finish sander. With strength, balance, and truly intelligent design the tool is, essentially, in a league of its own. Weighing only 2.4 lbs the sander is compact and lightweight, and with an ergonomic design it is comfortable to operate despite continuous or awkward use. The sander's balanced design (with vibration stop technology) and simple to operate speed control system render the tool uncommonly smooth and give craftsmen the ability to appropriately ascribe different speeds to each different application. The tool's orbital sanding motion produces full pad contact with the sanding surface, thus, minimizing any swirl effect and yielding strikingly smooth finishes. With a narrow profile rectangular pad design, craftsmen have superior access to tight spaces, the design additionally allows for close sanding on edges and frame members for the most professional finishes from edge to edge. Abrasive removal is quick and simple with the tool's resilient pad hooks and hard-wearing fabric backing - this also, pleasantly, contributes to a longer abrasive and pad life.

Additionally, Porter-Cable builds some of the finest, most trusted finishing sanders in the industry offering craftsmen designs and durability to withstand heavy-use and rough jobsite environments. Delivering the entire spectrum of "really great finishing sander" perks, Porter-Cable's 330 and 344 offer the most commendable features in a seriously high-quality sander. The 330 is small (at only 4 lbs) and ultra simple and comfortable to use. Despite being a smaller tool, the sander is still incredibly sturdy and incorporates rubber posts to isolate your hand from vibration; essentially the tool delivers aggressive sanding action without the stress and fatigue of heavy vibration. The tool orbits at 14,000 OPM to ensure the smoothest, most superfine finishes. Altogether, the 330 is compact, lightweight, comfortable, buttery smooth, and delivers an incredibly fine finish.

The 344 (5") random orbit sander is another treasure from Porter-Cable that exceeds all expectations. Using its powerful and yet oh so delicate style, the tool provides craftsmen with ridiculously smooth surfaces. It's optimized ergonomics are designed to enhance the comfort and usability of the tool, and weighing only 4.05 lbs, the tool is a feather weight with a furious appetite to finish your surfaces with a super-finer quality unlike any other. With a 3 amp motor and super fast 12,000 OPM this sander offers superior consistency, blending, and durability. Additionally, the tool is simple to use, comfortable to operate, ultra smooth, and easy to maintain rendering it, basically, a quality sanding essential.

Each of these sanders is sure to offer you striking results and professionally fine finishes that will leave you smiling after every use.

About the Author

A student at the UofU, Mallory is currently earning an English degree. Specializing in tool parts & web communications, she joined M&M Tool 4 yrs ago adding to their over 150 yrs combined experience. For over 70 yrs M&M Tool has provided the best service to the tool industry with replacement parts, sales, & service to woodworking products, machinery & power tools like Festool's 567817 finish sander, and Porter-Cable's 330 finish sander.

Porter Cable

Post from: Woodworking Training

Porter Cable

The usefulness of veneered and melamine-faced chipboard has been revolutionised by the wide range of fit¬tings available for joining it together and for making furniture, such as fitted cup¬boards and wardrobes.

All the fittings described on this article are sold separately in do-it-yourself shops and by mail order, but the fittings supplied with bought furniture (particularly kitchen units) are identical. Many of the fittings are known as KD (knockdown) because they have the characteristic (unlike conventional woodworking joints) that the furniture can be taken apart once it has been assembled.

Chipboard screws and plugs
Ordinary woodscrews do not take well in chipboard, and special chipboard screws have been developed. Looking more like self-tapping screws than woodscrews. chipboard screws are usually threaded all the way to the head and often have a double thread, which means the screw goes in faster. The screw bites into the chipboard as it is put in to give a good grip. Some larger chipboard screws come with a special drilling jig to make sure the holes to receive them are drilled in the correct place. To cover the normal chipboard screws, special plastic covering plugs are available in white, magnolia or brown, depending on the type of chipboard being used. These cither push into the Pozidriv head of the screw or into a counterbored hole in which the screw is recessed.

To get a stronger connection, a chip¬board plug can be used. Some of these work on the same principle as solid-wall fixing (expanding as the screw is driven in) while others are glued into the chip¬board; both allow ordinary woodscrews to be used. A hole (typically 8mm in diameter) is drilled in the edge of the chip¬board which will receive the screw and the screw is driven into the plug to give a secure fixing. Again, a dowelling or other jig will keep the hole square.

Where the countersunk head of a screw could damage a thin surface, surface or recessed screw cups can be used.

Block joints
These plastic blocks are used for joining two pieces of chipboard at right-angles.

The simplest type the mini-block - has a dowel to locate in one piece and a single screw to secure to the other. This makes for an unobtrusive joint, but not a very strong one.

A better connection is given by the one-piece block joint which is fitted into an internal corner and is simply screwed to the two pieces of chipboard. A neater result is given by a rigid triangular corner joint.

Better still is the two-part (or 'knock¬down') block joint where one part is screwed to each piece of chipboard and the two joined together by a slotted-head machine screw. This joint has the advantage that it can easily be taken apart but, like the one-piece joint, takes up room inside the cupboard. Block joints gener¬ally come in a choice of white or brown colours.

Cam joints
A cam joint is more complicated than a block joint, but is completely unobtrusive once fitted. A nylon dowel is inserted in the edge of one board and is locked by driving a steel pin into it. A large plug is fitted in the other board in a hole drilled by an end mill. The dowel fits into the plug and a cam screw is then turned to lock it in place. Although neat, this type of joint is more difficult to make than other types and is not always very rigid.

Panel connectors
There are two special connectors you can use for joining panels end to end or back to back.

For joining panels end to end (two adjacent lengths of worktop, for example), a panel butt joint connector is used. This fits into a pair of holes drilled in the surface of the two boards to be joined (again using an end mill) and a slot is cut to join the two holes. The connector is positioned and tightened with a span¬ncr, drawing the two boards together.

For joining panels back to back (con¬necting together two adjacent kitchen cupboards, for example), a cabinet connecting screw is used. This simply fits into a hole drilled through the walls of both cupboards and tightening it will bring them together.

Hinges
There is a wide selection of other types of hinge available for making your own furniture.

For kitchen cupboards, the most useful type of hinge is probably the adjustable concealed hinge which is fitted into two large holes drilled in the back face of the door and the side of the cupboard. This hole (typically 35mm) has to be made with a special drill bit called an end mill, which drills a flat-bottomed hole. For control on the depth to which it is drilled (which is crucial), the end mill is best used in an electric drill fitted to a vertical drill stand equipped with a depth stop.

Cupboard fixings
When it comes to fitting cupboards in place, there are several different types of fittings which can help.

First there is a variety of catches, including magnetic catches, magnetic touch catches (push to open; push again to close), roller catches and ball catches. If certain types of hinge have been used (and the door is hung properly), no catch is needed at all the hinge will hold il closed.

Hanging wall cupboards can often be a problem if the securing holes (for wall plugs) in the wall have not been made in exactly the correct place. Cabinet suspension fittings and cabinet hanging brackets both allow a degree of adjustment once lilted; the hanging bracket provides the more secure fixing.

An angle plate can also be used for holding cupboards to the wall, but is more commonly used for securing worktops to the sides of base unit kitchen cupboards.

For lightweight cupboards (or wall shelving units), glass plates can be used: these are simply screwed to the back of the cupboard and the surface of the wall, which means the cupboard stands out from the surface of the wall by the thick¬ness of the plate.

At the bottom of kitchen base unit cup¬boards, some kind of foot is necessary to keep the chipboard sides off the floor -particularly important if the chipboard is left unsealed when any water on the floor could damage it. Feet may also be needed to deal with uneven floors, though many kitchen fitters will simply pack the cup¬boards out with slips of hardboard. The simplest type is the metal foot, which is banged into the bottom of the cupboard sides. More sophisticated are the cabinet leveller, the base levelling screw and the adjustable foot, all of which allow for adjustments to be made to allow for discrepancies in the floor surface. As well as feet, there is a range of castors which can be used if the cupboard is to be movable.

Drawers
Making drawers in the traditional way can be very satisfying, but is hard work and, for a kitchen cupboard, may not be the best solution as all-timber drawers can be difficult to keep clean.

There are various drawer-making kits on the market, which use plastic slotted sections for the two sides and back of the drawer: you add your own front (some¬times attached to a fourth plastic section) and base (typically melamine-faced hard-board, positioned melamine face up).

Making your own drawer like this is fairly simple and involves only cutting the profiles to length, screwing pieces on to the back of the drawer front and slotting the whole thing together. You must double-check that everything is correct before you assemble the drawers (for example, the base is the right way up), because, once assembled, these drawers cannot readily be taken apart.

The drawer slides on simple rectangular plastic runners which are fitted to the sides of the kitchen or other cupboard.

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Question by Kevin R: what's the name of this woodworking joint?
i made a stool in woodwork and have to write up how i made it and stuff but i dont know the name of the joint i used?

the joint is a leg with two trenches cut out on one side and another on the adjecent side and two rails come in and meet in the middle and the rails are cut at 45 degree angles to make a 90 degree angle?

this is reli important so plz plz tell me?
no its not a dove tail joint i know wat that joint looks like, thanx anyway
i tink its actually a mitre joint or sumthing similar thanx neway

Best answer:

Answer by Snow
Could it be a dove tail joint?

Perhaps you could do a search on "dove tail joint" in images and find pics of them to verify it.

Good luck!

Give your answer to this question below!

Post from: Woodworking Training

Woodworking Tips – Furniture Fittings

This article provides a quick run down on common woodworking joints that you may come across in implementing a set of bookcase plans, or any woodwork plan or project. There are many different types of joints which vary in complexity, however you'll often find that the more complex the joint is, the stronger it is. So here's the basic run down:

Butt - this is a simple joint which involves joining the two pieces of wood edge to edge. It is usually reinforced with glue and/or screws.
Lap - this joint provides a modification on the butt joint which involves making a rabbet in the overlapping piece of wood. This adds to greater strength as there is more glueing area.
Mitre - A mitre joint looks appealing but does require more accuracy in cutting the pieces. In a mitre joint the two pieces of wood are cut at 45 degrees and joined together to make a corner.
Dado - This is where one piece of wood had a rabbet cut and receives the other piece into the rabbet. The dado joint is popular for bookcase shelves.
Dowel - this is a straightforward yet strong joint. It requires holes to be drilled and dowels glued into place to hold the joint.
Mortise and Tenon - this joint is a strong joint. It takes a bit more effort to master and involves cutting a hole in one piece of wood that will receive the other piece of wood.
Tongue and Groove - this joint is often used for floors and paneling. It allows for the wood to move with changes in temperature and involves cutting a groove in one piece of wood and a tongue on the other piece that fits into the first piece of wood.
Dovetail - the dovetail is an aesthetically appealing joint. It has an interlocking appearance. It is quite strong but requires patience and time to cut accurately.

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MANCHESTER: Residents can register for Walker Tavern workshop on Shaker box making
Master woodworker John Wilson will be teaching the lost art of Shaker Oval Box-making at the Walker Tavern Historic Site in Brooklyn Oct. 1 and 2. The workshop runs on Friday from 6 to 10 p.m. and continues on Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Read more on The Manchester Enterprise

Post from: Woodworking Training

Types Of Joints For Building A Bookcase

Nowadays, it is possible to build almost any piece of furniture without being able to tell a dovetail from a bridle joint or ever touching a chisel. But if you want to work wood or if your interest is in repairing, restoring or reproducing traditional furniture, you will need to know the purposes of cut joints and the way to make them.

Cutting traditional joints is work for hand tools; the right ones, correctly used without rushing.
The tools you need

The tools required are few and mostly unsophisticated. Jigs, which can save time setting out when the same joint must be repeated several times, are available. But they are limited in the size of work-piece that can be accommodated and require much the same level of concentration in use as tools used freehand. You can also make your own jigs.

A basic setting and marking out kit consists of a try-square (for angles other than 90° use a sliding bevel), a pencil and a marking knife, a straight-edged rule (preferably stainless steel) and marking and mortise gauges.

The four basic tools for making joints are a saw, a chisel, a mallet and a plane. You do not need to use all four for every joint. For some joints you need only use a saw - usually a tenon saw, but fine cabinet work may call for a dovetail saw, which is similar but smaller. Even finer work - on small drawers and boxes or on models, say - may need a gents saw, which has a straight handle and very small teeth. A coping saw is useful for cutting out the waste between dovetails and pins.

Many joints require chisels - the most satisfactory type for general use is the bevel-edge chisel, in widths from 6.5mm upwards. A block or smoothing plane is needed to level the surfaces of the joint after it has been assembled. Rebate, moulding and plough planes could also be used to make the work easier. A router makes a better job of smoothing and levelling the bottom of housings than a chisel.

Joints
The naming of joints is not always consistent: some are called one thing by one craftsman and something else by another. Where alternative names are common, we have given both.

A joint is a fixed junction between two or more pieces of wood: it should not be flexible. The simplest is the butt joint, in which two surfaces are brought together in the same plane and joined with glue or mechanical devices, such as pins or screws, or a combination of both. A dowelled joint is basically a butt joint secured with glued-in wooden pins - dowels.

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Question by Lukey: Woodworking Joints?
can someone please list a heap of different Woodworking Joints, Such as the Biscuit Joint
Thanks!

Best answer:

Answer by Sucky Fucky
The tennon, jig, fling, clout, dont, annoy, people, look, on, web!

What do you think? Answer below!

Post from: Woodworking Training

Basic Woodworking Joints

A rebate joint, at its simplest, is a slightly stronger version of a butt joint it pro¬vides contact between the mating com¬ponents in two planes instead of one. A rebate is formed by removing a square or rectangular section across the end or along the edge of a piece of wood using hand or power tools.

Rebate joint
In the simplest type of rebate joint, the rebate is normally cut to half the wood thickness, leaving a projecting tongue equal to the thickness of the other, square-cut component. This type of rebate is often used on the lops of book¬cases and shelf unils where the top rests on and between the top ends of the sides. It may also be used for joining drawer fronts to and between the sides. At least half the end grain is hidden.

The joints are usually reinforced with pins, driven through the overlap in pairs at opposing angles - this is called dovetail nailing.

The rebate is usually cut with a rebate plane. This has a width guide and a depth stop and cleans the vertical edge of the cut as it is used. Short rebates in a board end, for example can be cut with a saw but care is needed.

Bare-faced halving
This is another type of rebate joint often used for fixing shelves in bookcases. The shelves have rebated ends with the projecting tongue lilting into the horizontal slots in the inner faces of the bookcase sides. The joint is made shoulder-up for strength. This joint may be used in drawers; a rebated back may be housed between the sides, or a front

Housing joints
Not all housing joints are rebated, but whether they are or not. they fall in two categories: the through housing, in which the construction is visible at both back and front edges of the joint; and the stop¬ped housing which from the front edge appears to be a simple butt joint.

Through housing
This is a simple joint to set out and cut. The shoulder lines of the housing (the thickness of the board to be housed apart) should be marked across the inner face of the board and squared over the edges. The depth of the housing - between one-third and half the thick¬ness - should be marked with a gauge. Then shoulders should be sawn and the waste removed with a chisel again work from each edge towards the centre. Finish the bottom of the housing with a router or a paring chisel.

Stopped housing
In this joint the cut should be taken only part way across the board, stopping about 20mm from the front edge. The end of the board to fit into it should be cut at the front corner to accommodate the 'stop'.

Mark shoulder lines across the inner face as far as the stop and on the back edge. Gauge the depth on the back edge too. To allow room to work the saw, the first 50mm of the housing back from the stop should be cut out with the chisel -used with its bevel down. Then saw shoulders, and chisel out the remaining waste and finish the bottom of the hous¬ing with a router if you have one.

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Post from: Woodworking Training

Basic Woodworking Joints – Rebate and Housing Joints

Anatomical Structure of Woodwork Joints

Depending on the type of woodworking project you may have in mind, the following will help you decide on what appropriate woodwork joint to use. With the advent of new tools and machineries, traditional joints have evolved in various types. These woodwork joints differ in styles but have the ultimate purpose of making a strong and stable woodwork.

1. Square Butt Joint. Simply known as the butt joint, it is the most basic joint in joining two pieces of timber relying solely on glue to stick it together. The advantage of this is its being quick and easy to make. It is very useful in making boxes and picture frames. However, since the end of the timber where glue is applied is porous which absorbs most of the glue, it becomes difficult to hold the timber together. On the other hand, this can be strengthened by using screws or pins as support.

2. Mitre or Miter Joint. This is a joint created by sawing one end of two parts to be joined at an angle of 45° to form a 90o angle corner. This is more often used in making picture frames than butt joints. Although this popular method of joining is cheap, it requires accurate cutting to achieve its best strength and visual appeal.

3. Dado Joint. Also known as the housed joint, this type of joint is most popularly used in making bookcases, shelves, and drawers . Unlike butt joints, this joint does not need the benefit of any glue or screw to hold it in place. To make a dado joint, a cut in one piece of wood receives the end of the other. It is much stronger than the butt joint and has a more professional appeal.

4. Dowel Joint. To make a dowel joint, drill aligning holes in each piece of wood then by using glue attach the dowels in place for a tight joint. To achieve high accuracy, it requires a dowelling jig and bits. Use a jig and a drill press to obtain straight holes with uniform depth.

5. Mortise-and-Tenon Joint. This joint is used to Join two members perpendicularly. A rectangular projection from the end of one piece called the tenon fits snugly into the mortise cut in the second piece. This strong and traditional joint can be made even stronger by adding a peg. This is commonly used in antique furniture building.

6. Tongue-and-Groove Joint. Also known as the finger joint, this joint allows for wood shrinkage, it's great for floors and paneling. Long tapered tongues or fingers that interlock join two pieces of timber lengthwise. A high powered router is used to cut a groove in the edge of one piece and a tongue on the other to fit into the groove.

7. Through-Dovetail Joint. This is one of the most stylish joints available, but also one that requires additional patience and more accuracy to cut. The interlocking cut of the wood makes it really strong plus gives more visual interest. This type of joint is used in the manufacture of superior furniture.

8. Lap Joint. This is made by laying one piece on top of another. This can be used either in an angle or lengthwise joint. Lap joints can be made manually with a saw and chisel, on a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, or with a router and a straight bit. Meanwhile, there is a variation of a lap joint which is the half lap joint. This is when half of the thickness from each piece is removed. To make a half lap joint, several cuts half the depth of the material is made while the excess is removed with a chisel.

Now that you know most of the different types of woodwork joints and you can now determine which is best suited for your next woodwork project, there is no reason why you shouldn’t start working on it.

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Post from: Woodworking Training

Woodwork Joints

Many individuals considering a home improvement project do not appropriately anticipate extra costs involved with projects. Good financial planning and the inclusion of extra costs can reduce the stress of renovations. It is often suggested to secure financing prior to beginning the project, such as a home line of credit for instance. The benefit of a line of credit is that you do not have to use it, but it does provide some security in knowing the funding is available when you are faced with unexpected expenses.

Attempts by homeowners to renovate their home into their "fantasy home" as seen on television could be turning DIY remodeling projects into divorce, D.I.V.O.R.C.E., according to a study from British Gas' website http://house.co.uk. Eighty percent of families admitted that they have had arguments over unsuccessful renovations. For example, two in three families state that they have had disagreements over color schemes, which has also been cited as the most likely reason for a break-up. Other top reasons for DIY home improvement disputes include an unfinished job, lack of time for the project, the related mess or disruption, the cost, stress, lack of knowledge of home improvement projects and gender differences of opinion.

One way to help avoid DYI disputes is to call a professional contractor or skilled tradesman. Homeowners spend millions in an attempt to fix their DIY remodeling disasters, when the problems could have been avoided in the first place. Many think that performing the work themselves may save money. Though this may be true in some cases, DIY projects can also result in spending extra money in the end as well as many headaches, hassle and a lengthier project. This is something to consider when contemplating renovations on your home. This particular survey on British Gas' website was conducted to evaluate consumers' attitudes toward do-it-yourself home projects. http://House.co.uk provides a national directory of reliable tradesman by HomePro, Ltd., a leading online provider of trade professionals.

Post from: Woodworking Training

Contribution Of The Woodworking Show On Consumers