Woodworking How To Make Box Joints ?

Before the advent of cardboard boxes, manufacturers joined the sides of thin wooden boxes with these joints because they were strong and fast to make. Today,box joints have taken on practical and decorative roles in projects ranging from jewellery cases to hope chests. After you build the jig featured in the Box-Joint Jig Project, follow these steps and see firsthand how easily you can master this joinery method. Visit the Woodworking Plans Website pages for more woodworking articles.

1. Before you cut the actual box joints, keep in mind that the width of your box sides must be an increment of the finger width. Otherwise, you'll wind up with less-thanpleasing partial fingers at the bottom of your box. So, in the example of 1/4"-thick stock discussed here and in the jig-building article, the width of the work pieces must be an increment of 1/4" (such as 5", 5 1/4", 5 1/2", etc.).

Mark the front, back, and side pieces of y box. Also, mark the top edge on each of these pieces.

For each box you make, you cut the sides consecutively, and the front and back consecutively. It doesn't matter which pair you do first, so we'll start with the sides.

For all of the following cuts, hold the top edge of the work piece toward the jig pin for the first cut. Now, put hand pressure on the jig to hold its mitre-gauge bar firmly against the right side of the table saw channel. Make the first cut as shown above. Place the just-cut notch over the jib pin and repeat to cut fingers along the full width of the work piece. Cut the other sidepiece in the same fashion.

3. Before you cut the front and back, cut one notch into a scrap piece, just as you cut the first notch into the sidepiece earlier. Position this notch over the pin as shown at left, and butt the top edge of the front piece against the scrap before making a cut. Make the remaining cuts in the front piece by removing the scrap, placing the notch over the pin, and proceeding as described earlier. Cut the back piece just as you cut the front.

4. To join your box pieces, apply glue to all of the mating surfaces with a small brush. Tap the joints together with a rubber mallet if necessary. Clamp the box together as shown above. (You may need to position a clamp diagonally to square the box.) Note that we used scrap pieces on each side of the corners to evenly distribute the clamping pressure along the joint. Wider boxes may require additional clamps. After the glue dries, sand the fingers flush with the sides, front, and back. Be careful not to round over the corners.Visit the Woodworking Plans TV pages for more woodworking articles.

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In this episode, I discuss a fundamental woodworking joint, the mortise and tenon. Check out all our videos and projects at thewoodwhisperer.com

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Woodworking Butt Joints Detailed Explanation

OF all the joints used to assemble boards, the butt joint is certainly the most straightforward. Affixing the edge, end, or face of one board to that of another may not always produce the strongest joint. However, a properly reinforced butt joint is an excellent option for dozens of woodworking tasks, from joining smaller boards into a wide panel to assembling carcases and frames.

Visit Woodworking Plans Website for more woodworking tools details.

The simple butt joint contains no interlocking parts, relying instead on the glue bond for its strength. The solidity of that bond is determined by the grain orientation of the mating boards. Gluing long grain to long grain, as in panel, edge,and face-to-face joints, produces a solid connection, requiring no reinforcement. All other butt joints involve end grain; this porous surface provides a much less effective gluing surface than an equivalent area of long grain. Therefore, end grain joints must be reinforced.

Nails and screws can be used for reinforcement, but cabinetmakers try to avoid them for two principal reasons: Additional work is required to conceal the fasteners, and neither does as good a job joining end grain as some of the alternatives. Screws are considered superior for one application, however, and that is the task of fastening a tabletop to its supporting rails. The technique, which involves drilling angled boards.

Most other joinery needs are filled by dowels, compressed-wood wafers or "biscuitsl" or splines, which can also serve to align parts of a joint that do not require reinforcement. Each demands mastery of a specialized technique-but the procedures are simple and they allow the quick assembly of strong, attractive joints in which the mechanical parts can be hidden from view.

At least one butt-joining technique--the butterfly key joint--is not meant to be hidden; in fact it is used as much for decoration as for strength. In this joint a doubledovetail key--the butterfly--is cut from a contrasting wood and used to tie together two edge-joined boards. The butterfly demands patience, but a well-set key can be a striking feature of a tabletop.

At the other end of the form-to-function scale is the use of threaded rods to reinforce such workaday surfaces as butcher blocks, workbenches, and countertops. These are often built up of face-glued stock, and the rods serve to stabilize the heavy slab when room humidity changes.Visit Woodworking Plans TV for more woodworking skills....

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Mortise And Tenon Joints

Mortise and tenon is one of the oldest and simplest joints around, but it is also one of the strongest.  When tested against other joints by Wood Magazine, the mortise and tenon joint took two to three times more force to break than any other joint that they tested.  It also took the award for hardest joint to pull apart.  Over 4,700 pounds of force were used to pull this joint apart, and it still didn't budge before the wood broke.

The mortise is the female "receiving" end of the joint.  A hole is cut partway or all the way through a piece of wood.  The tenon is formed on the other piece of wood.  The tenon is the male end.  It is a tab cut into a piece of wood that fits perfectly into the mortise.  This joint joins two pieces of wood at ninety degrees, like a key in a lock.

An open mortise is the same as a bridle joint.  A tenon is cut into the end of a board, and a mortise into the other, just like a regular mortise and tenon joint.  However, the tenon is cut to be the full length of the end of the board.  So, it is more like the tongue of a tongue and groove joint, only cut on two sides.  The mortise is more of a slot than a hole.  You can use a router or a circular saw to cut the slot and tenon of the open mortise joint.

A stub mortise is a mortise that doesn't go all the way through the board.  It is a hole of a specific depth and the tenon is cut to fit into the hole.  A through mortise is one that has a mortise that completely goes through the board.

One of the oldest types of mortise and tenon joints is the dovetail joint.  This joint is known for its tensile strength and is often used in furniture that will be put through a lot of pushing and pulling.  You will most likely see a dovetail joint if you open your dresser drawer and take a look where the front connects with the sides.  For this joint, pins are cut in the end of one board.  Then tails, or slots, are cut in the end of the other board.  The pins and tails are usually cut into a trapezoid shape and glued.  No other hardware is needed once the dovetails are glued into place.

There are many types of joints that you can use depending on what you are building.  Mortise and tenon joints are great for projects that will need to endure a lot of wear and tear.  You can also use dowels for joining boards together.  A <a rel="nofollow" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);" href="http://www.goodwoodinc.com/"title="Dowel">dowel</a> rod creates a strong joint and can sometimes be easier than some mortise and tenon joints.  Consult a woodworking professional or follow professional advice when choosing the best kind of joints for your woodworking projects.

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Types Of Joints For Building A Bookcase

This article provides a quick run down on common woodworking joints that you may come across in implementing a set of bookcase plans, or any woodwork plan or project. There are many different types of joints which vary in complexity, however you'll often find that the more complex the joint is, the stronger it is. So here's the basic run down:

Butt - this is a simple joint which involves joining the two pieces of wood edge to edge. It is usually reinforced with glue and/or screws.
Lap - this joint provides a modification on the butt joint which involves making a rabbet in the overlapping piece of wood. This adds to greater strength as there is more glueing area.
Mitre - A mitre joint looks appealing but does require more accuracy in cutting the pieces. In a mitre joint the two pieces of wood are cut at 45 degrees and joined together to make a corner.
Dado - This is where one piece of wood had a rabbet cut and receives the other piece into the rabbet. The dado joint is popular for bookcase shelves.
Dowel - this is a straightforward yet strong joint. It requires holes to be drilled and dowels glued into place to hold the joint.
Mortise and Tenon - this joint is a strong joint. It takes a bit more effort to master and involves cutting a hole in one piece of wood that will receive the other piece of wood.
Tongue and Groove - this joint is often used for floors and paneling. It allows for the wood to move with changes in temperature and involves cutting a groove in one piece of wood and a tongue on the other piece that fits into the first piece of wood.
Dovetail - the dovetail is an aesthetically appealing joint. It has an interlocking appearance. It is quite strong but requires patience and time to cut accurately.

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MANCHESTER: Residents can register for Walker Tavern workshop on Shaker box making
Master woodworker John Wilson will be teaching the lost art of Shaker Oval Box-making at the Walker Tavern Historic Site in Brooklyn Oct. 1 and 2. The workshop runs on Friday from 6 to 10 p.m. and continues on Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Read more on The Manchester Enterprise

Basic Woodworking Joints

Nowadays, it is possible to build almost any piece of furniture without being able to tell a dovetail from a bridle joint or ever touching a chisel. But if you want to work wood or if your interest is in repairing, restoring or reproducing traditional furniture, you will need to know the purposes of cut joints and the way to make them.

Cutting traditional joints is work for hand tools; the right ones, correctly used without rushing.
The tools you need

The tools required are few and mostly unsophisticated. Jigs, which can save time setting out when the same joint must be repeated several times, are available. But they are limited in the size of work-piece that can be accommodated and require much the same level of concentration in use as tools used freehand. You can also make your own jigs.

A basic setting and marking out kit consists of a try-square (for angles other than 90° use a sliding bevel), a pencil and a marking knife, a straight-edged rule (preferably stainless steel) and marking and mortise gauges.

The four basic tools for making joints are a saw, a chisel, a mallet and a plane. You do not need to use all four for every joint. For some joints you need only use a saw - usually a tenon saw, but fine cabinet work may call for a dovetail saw, which is similar but smaller. Even finer work - on small drawers and boxes or on models, say - may need a gents saw, which has a straight handle and very small teeth. A coping saw is useful for cutting out the waste between dovetails and pins.

Many joints require chisels - the most satisfactory type for general use is the bevel-edge chisel, in widths from 6.5mm upwards. A block or smoothing plane is needed to level the surfaces of the joint after it has been assembled. Rebate, moulding and plough planes could also be used to make the work easier. A router makes a better job of smoothing and levelling the bottom of housings than a chisel.

Joints
The naming of joints is not always consistent: some are called one thing by one craftsman and something else by another. Where alternative names are common, we have given both.

A joint is a fixed junction between two or more pieces of wood: it should not be flexible. The simplest is the butt joint, in which two surfaces are brought together in the same plane and joined with glue or mechanical devices, such as pins or screws, or a combination of both. A dowelled joint is basically a butt joint secured with glued-in wooden pins - dowels.

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Question by Lukey: Woodworking Joints?
can someone please list a heap of different Woodworking Joints, Such as the Biscuit Joint
Thanks!

Best answer:

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What do you think? Answer below!

Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

A rebate joint, at its simplest, is a slightly stronger version of a butt joint it pro¬vides contact between the mating com¬ponents in two planes instead of one. A rebate is formed by removing a square or rectangular section across the end or along the edge of a piece of wood using hand or power tools.

Rebate joint
In the simplest type of rebate joint, the rebate is normally cut to half the wood thickness, leaving a projecting tongue equal to the thickness of the other, square-cut component. This type of rebate is often used on the lops of book¬cases and shelf unils where the top rests on and between the top ends of the sides. It may also be used for joining drawer fronts to and between the sides. At least half the end grain is hidden.

The joints are usually reinforced with pins, driven through the overlap in pairs at opposing angles - this is called dovetail nailing.

The rebate is usually cut with a rebate plane. This has a width guide and a depth stop and cleans the vertical edge of the cut as it is used. Short rebates in a board end, for example can be cut with a saw but care is needed.

Bare-faced halving
This is another type of rebate joint often used for fixing shelves in bookcases. The shelves have rebated ends with the projecting tongue lilting into the horizontal slots in the inner faces of the bookcase sides. The joint is made shoulder-up for strength. This joint may be used in drawers; a rebated back may be housed between the sides, or a front

Housing joints
Not all housing joints are rebated, but whether they are or not. they fall in two categories: the through housing, in which the construction is visible at both back and front edges of the joint; and the stop¬ped housing which from the front edge appears to be a simple butt joint.

Through housing
This is a simple joint to set out and cut. The shoulder lines of the housing (the thickness of the board to be housed apart) should be marked across the inner face of the board and squared over the edges. The depth of the housing - between one-third and half the thick¬ness - should be marked with a gauge. Then shoulders should be sawn and the waste removed with a chisel again work from each edge towards the centre. Finish the bottom of the housing with a router or a paring chisel.

Stopped housing
In this joint the cut should be taken only part way across the board, stopping about 20mm from the front edge. The end of the board to fit into it should be cut at the front corner to accommodate the 'stop'.

Mark shoulder lines across the inner face as far as the stop and on the back edge. Gauge the depth on the back edge too. To allow room to work the saw, the first 50mm of the housing back from the stop should be cut out with the chisel -used with its bevel down. Then saw shoulders, and chisel out the remaining waste and finish the bottom of the hous¬ing with a router if you have one.

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Woodwork Joints

Anatomical Structure of Woodwork Joints

Depending on the type of woodworking project you may have in mind, the following will help you decide on what appropriate woodwork joint to use. With the advent of new tools and machineries, traditional joints have evolved in various types. These woodwork joints differ in styles but have the ultimate purpose of making a strong and stable woodwork.

1. Square Butt Joint. Simply known as the butt joint, it is the most basic joint in joining two pieces of timber relying solely on glue to stick it together. The advantage of this is its being quick and easy to make. It is very useful in making boxes and picture frames. However, since the end of the timber where glue is applied is porous which absorbs most of the glue, it becomes difficult to hold the timber together. On the other hand, this can be strengthened by using screws or pins as support.

2. Mitre or Miter Joint. This is a joint created by sawing one end of two parts to be joined at an angle of 45° to form a 90o angle corner. This is more often used in making picture frames than butt joints. Although this popular method of joining is cheap, it requires accurate cutting to achieve its best strength and visual appeal.

3. Dado Joint. Also known as the housed joint, this type of joint is most popularly used in making bookcases, shelves, and drawers . Unlike butt joints, this joint does not need the benefit of any glue or screw to hold it in place. To make a dado joint, a cut in one piece of wood receives the end of the other. It is much stronger than the butt joint and has a more professional appeal.

4. Dowel Joint. To make a dowel joint, drill aligning holes in each piece of wood then by using glue attach the dowels in place for a tight joint. To achieve high accuracy, it requires a dowelling jig and bits. Use a jig and a drill press to obtain straight holes with uniform depth.

5. Mortise-and-Tenon Joint. This joint is used to Join two members perpendicularly. A rectangular projection from the end of one piece called the tenon fits snugly into the mortise cut in the second piece. This strong and traditional joint can be made even stronger by adding a peg. This is commonly used in antique furniture building.

6. Tongue-and-Groove Joint. Also known as the finger joint, this joint allows for wood shrinkage, it's great for floors and paneling. Long tapered tongues or fingers that interlock join two pieces of timber lengthwise. A high powered router is used to cut a groove in the edge of one piece and a tongue on the other to fit into the groove.

7. Through-Dovetail Joint. This is one of the most stylish joints available, but also one that requires additional patience and more accuracy to cut. The interlocking cut of the wood makes it really strong plus gives more visual interest. This type of joint is used in the manufacture of superior furniture.

8. Lap Joint. This is made by laying one piece on top of another. This can be used either in an angle or lengthwise joint. Lap joints can be made manually with a saw and chisel, on a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, or with a router and a straight bit. Meanwhile, there is a variation of a lap joint which is the half lap joint. This is when half of the thickness from each piece is removed. To make a half lap joint, several cuts half the depth of the material is made while the excess is removed with a chisel.

Now that you know most of the different types of woodwork joints and you can now determine which is best suited for your next woodwork project, there is no reason why you shouldn’t start working on it.

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