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9 Essential Woodworking Joints with Craig Ruegsegger
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The Router - The Most Versatile Tool in your Woodworking Shop

A router is a woodworking tool used to rout out (hollow out) an area in the face of a piece of wood. Today, traditional hand-powered routers are often called router planes. Many woodworkers consider it to be the single most versatile woodworking power tool in their shops. Quite simply, a router is a handheld tool that is used to cut grooves or edges in pieces of wood.  Coupled with it's portability, the router's usefuleness comes from the wide variety of bits that can be inserted into the tool.  These bits allow the router to cut various shapes into wood.  These shapes can be decorative (rounding over an edge) or they can be functional (dovetail joint used to hold two pieces of wood together).

The uses of a router are virtually endless.  Coupled with a router table and a variety of bits, there are literally hundreds of projects that can be completed with just a router.  Searching the internet for "router plans" yields almost 5 million results.  The router is so popular because of it's versatility and it's low cost.  Entry-level routers can be purchased for less than while professional quality routers cost less than 0.

Routers come in two basic styles... the stationary router and the plunge router.  With a stationary router, you manually set the depth of the cut and that depth stays fixed as you cut your wood piece.  With a plunge router, you have the ability to place the router over the piece of wood you want to cut, then lower it into the piece to make your cut.  Neither type is necessarily better, they just have different applications.  Typically a stationary router is the right type to purchase when you are getting started.

Other router features to be aware of when choosing a router are:

- The more horsepower a router has, the easier it can cut through wood.  Choose a router with too little horsepower and the motor will burn up after a short time.  Also, when cutting hard wood (birch, cherry, etc...) a router with too little horsepower can burn the wood instead of cutting it.  Routers today range from 1 horsepower to over 3 horsepower.  To get started, consider a 2HP or larger motor
- The collet is the part of the router that bits are inserted into.  Once a bit is inserted into the collet, it is tightened in order to grasp the bit firmly.  Collets come in 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch sizes.  The 1/2 bits are larger and can cut wood more easily and are easier to use.  For the most flexibility, purchase a router with a 1/2 inch collet.  1/4 inch bits can still fit into it, so you'll have the most flexibility, and can use the more expensive, but easier to use, 1/2 inch bits later.
- Because the router spins at high speed and is used to cut wood, a firm grasp is required in order to keep the router from flying around when cutting.  The handles are used for this purpose.  There are several types of handles, and no specific one is best, just choose the one that feels most comfortable in your hands.  This is where it's useful to visit your local home center or woodworking supply shop so you can hold several router types to see what handle feels best to you.

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While a router is very useful in and of itself, there are some additional accessories that you'll want to consider as your skills improve.

- Bits are the core of what makes a router useful.  There are hundreds of different bits available, each with it's own purpose.  Some bits cut thin lines, some bits cut large ones.  There are bits to round over edges, to create decorations (molding), and to create cuts that allow wood to fit together without fasteners (dovetail).  The more you use your router, the more you'll see how helpful bits can be.  Invest in good quality bits and you will be rewarded with clean cuts for a long time to come.
- Moving a router around a piece of wood is extremely useful, however it requires that you clamp your wood piece to your workbench so that it doesn't move during cutting.  Because the router often moves around the entire piece of wood, you have to stop and move clamps frequently.  This can be a nuisance if your piece is small as you'll have to stop several times to move your clamps.  For this reason, routers are often mounted upside down in a router table.  With this configuration, the router stays in one place and you move the wood piece around the router.  When using a router table, very few (or often none) clamps are required when you are routing your wood.  As an added bonus, there are thousands of free plans on the internet to enable you to build your own router table.  They are simple to build and infinitely useful.
- When cutting complex shapes, it's often helpful to have a pattern, or jig, available.  A jig allows you to cut the exact same shape and size every single time.  When cutting dovetail joints for example, your cuts must be exact or the two pieces of wood won't fit together correctly.  A jig solves this problem.  Jigs clamp onto the wood piece, then the router only cuts the open spaces in the jig.  When the jig is removed, the piece is cut precisely.  There are hundreds of jigs available for routers when cutting standard shapes, or you can design your own jig when making a custom piece.  Popular jigs allow circular cuts, special joints, and specific shapes for popular project requirements.

With the popularity of woodworking and the immense usefulness of the router, you can purchase a good quality router just about anywhere.  If you have a local home center or woodworking store, that's a great place to start.  You can compare options, hold the various routers to see which ones feel best, and you can ask an associate for assistance if you need it.  For the ultimate selection, online retailers such as Amazon, Sears, Lowes, Home Depot and Northern all offer many styles and options.

If you don't yet own a router, you should budget for one as soon as possible.  This flexible tool will soon be a favorite in your workshop!

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Chest Woodworking Plans ? A Guide to Choosing Your Woodworking Project Plans

You don't have to be a kid to appreciate wooden chests. Wooden chests are fun pieces of furniture, and building them is even more enjoyable. In fact, chest woodworking projects are an excellent way to start your woodworking hobby. They are fairly easy to construct and they do not require a lot of materials. Your creativity an also go full swing as you are not restricted to particular schemes or styles when it comes to chest woodworking You can try your hand on creating a wacky pirate treasure box or an ‘antique' cherry chest.

However, chest woodworking projects still vary in complexity so make sure you choose one appropriate to your skill level. Good woodworking plans usually state the level of difficulty and that's the first thing you should take a look at. Here's more:

Design Notes

The beauty of a chest woodworking project is that you get to play around with the design. It would be fun to choose ornamental hinges and front clasps. Handles would also be a good addition as it will make it easy to move the chest around when needed. A good woodworking plan should include suggestions on ornamental additions, finishing and general design patterns, if any.

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Bill of Materials

Materials for chest woodworking vary greatly. You can make one out of plywood, pine, cedar or cherry. Just make sure there is a detailed cutting list. Another point is that some wooden chests are constructed without nailing the boards or pieces of wood. Some woodworkers prefer wood glue. But there are instances when you cannot do away with screwing the pieces together. Good chest woodworking plans have detailed lists of materials.

The Control Mechanism Feature

Wooden chests have two major parts; the base and the lid. A good woodworking plan would involve instructions on installing a control mechanism, like a simple chain inside the chest to prevent the lid from swinging too far out and causing damage to the hinges.

The Instructions

Dovetail joints, biscuit joints, tongue and grove – these might be things an expert woodworker can accomplish without a sweat. But not everyone could. Good chest woodworking plans do not necessarily have to initiate you to woodworking jargon (you should learn them eventually, if you are a true-blue woodworking enthusiast); instead they should be clear and should provide step by step instructions.

Since these storage units are easy to construct, you won't find yourself in a lot of frustrating moments that is often the case with more complicated projects like dining tables and outhouses. What better way to boost your woodworking skills than by working on something you can actually finish, and enjoy while doing so.

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10 Tips & Tricks to Solve Annoying Woodworking Problems

1. Protect your project from Glue Run-Outs

When glue leaks onto a wood exposed surface it generally seeps into the pores of the wood, and any finish you want to apply to the wood will have blemishes, as the finish cannot fill the wood spores because they are already filled up with glue.

A simple trick to get rid of the problem is after dry-fitting your work and before you apply any glue, simply line up the edges that you are going to glue and use some masking tape or even some blue painter's tape.

The result is that any glue that leaks out will end up on the tape instead of the wood.

After the glue has dried, all you have to do is peel off the tape and your wood has been protected.

2. How to Eliminate Saw Blade Burns

The simple answer is to avoid them in the first place.

Check your saw blade. Is it sharp and clean?

A dull blade slows how fast your wood can go through the saw and a slow cut is very often the cause of saw blade burn.

Burns on your stock can be removed by sanding but a better idea is to use a wood plane or a sharp, flat scraper.

3. How to Drill Clean Holes

When you drill with a large hole saw or spade bit, do you find that the backside of the stock tends to tear when completing the hole?

You can avoid this by clamping a block of hardwood to the backside of your work before you drill. Do not use anything softer than your work-piece or you might find that a tear will still happen.

Another thing you can do is just drill half-way through the stock, until the pilot just penetrates the backside of the work-piece, then flip your work-piece over and drill back the other way.

4. Stop Pipe Clamp Stains

Glue loves to drip and stick to the metal bar of a pipe clamp. This can stain the wood or even interfere with the operation of the clamp.

One solution to this problem is - use a hand saw to cut a roll of wax paper into 2" strips. Either wrap the strips around the bar or lay them over the bar during glue-up. Your problems are over.

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5. Information Makes Strong Joints

Oil, wax and saw dust can compromise the strength of a glue joint. Just a very small amount of sawdust can wedge the pieces out of line or create gaps in the glue joint. Take the time to remove dust, chips or splinters from a joint. It does not take much effort or time but can save hours of repair time.

Learning about the adhesives you are using is important, and can eliminate many of the common problems new woodworkers come across. You can get a lot of information by simply checking on the package or container of the adhesive your using. Many manufacturers have web sites, which will give you a lot of information you should be aware of. This can give you a good head start on producing long-lasting glue joints.

6. Safety with push sticks

Here is a safety tool to keep your fingers safe around your router table or table saw.

One slip around the blades of your table saw or router table a slip could bring a quick end to your fun with woodworking tools very fast.

Push sticks and Push Blocks can be used to take some of this danger away from your fingers. Using them enables you to rip and shape smaller pieces of stock with a greater level of safety.

Check locally or even on the Internet as you can find a number of commercial push sticks and push blocks available or you could even make one.

The size or shape varies from user to user and which machine you are using and even what application you need a push stick or block for.

For feeding narrow stock between a feather-board and a fence a push stick with a 45 degree angle with a small notch at the end usually works best.

Design and make your own for different jobs to suit you.

7. Surface Planing

One of the problems you may run up against is to know if the entire surface of a board that you have run through a thickness planer is flat.

A simple method to find out is to use a piece of chalk mark and scribble on the surface of the board.

Then just run it through your planer until all your chalk marks disappears.

8. Fix A Sagging Door With Deck Screws

We have all seen how a heavy door can sag after it has been hanging for a while. What happens is, the weight of the door can cause the doorjamb to twist.

Generally why this happens is, the fasteners holding the door in place are not strong enough to support the door's weight and the screws holding the door hinge to the jamb are fairly short., Just use long screws so you can connect with the wall framing. Replace the short screws in the hinge with 2" deck screws. These 2" screws will reach into the stud and help secure the door

9. A Simple Putty Trick

After filling some nail holes with putty and the putty is lighter than the wood around it- you will usually see large blotches (instead of tiny nail-sized spots.)

Here comes masking tape to the rescue once more!

Before you use your hammer and nails, simply put down a strip of masking tape and nail and set the heads like normal.

Then push your putty into the holes and remove the tape. The little bit of putty that is still there can be easily sanded.

10. How To Keep Your Costs Down

When starting out - only add tools as you need them.

You would be surprised at how many jobs can be done with the tools you already have. Far better to check that out first before heading out to buy what you think is really necessary at that time.

Consider alternate ways to do the job with what you already have.

Do not go running out to buy cheap tools either, because you will probably regret that later. There is no substitute for quality.

Article Source : http://ezinearticles.com/?10-Tips-and-Tricks-to-Solve-Annoying-Woodworking-Problems&id=4765499

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Learn how to Establish High quality Woodworking

Anyone who knows something about woodworking is aware of that it isn't all nice; that there is unhealthy woodworking, and there may be high quality woodworking. Whereas the distinction between the 2 is pretty obvious to some folks, there are many people who simply aren't in a position to inform the distinction between the two. This is a actual downside after they go out to get furnishings and end up paying a lot of money for something that simply isn't value it. Listed below are some issues to remember the subsequent time that you simply evaluate a chunk of high quality woodworking.

Firstly, and maybe most clearly, you might want to guantee that the woodwork is sturdy. This holds true for each items of furnishings, and different objects like boxes. If it is a chair, be sure you sit down on it and shift your weight around. There are a couple of points the place you wish to be sure that it holds and doesn't wobble around. You wish to ensure that the legs are planted firmly on the ground and that they appear to be properly hooked up to the seat and backing. You want to grasp the arms and attempt to move them to make it possible for they are not going to shift as you move, and you want to be sure that the back is firmly attached and does not bow out where it is not supposed to.

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Now, loads of these items that you simply're checking maintain true for some other piece of high quality woodworking that you're evaluating. Obvious a big chest is not going to have legs to check, but the concept stays true. You need to be sure that all seams are closed and do not pry apart with strain or shifting, and you want to make sure the whole thing is fastened correctly together and doesn't have any apparent areas where the totally different pieces of wood are separating.

The ways in which the pieces of wood are joined together are also a sign of how prime quality the piece is. There are some things that you all the time wish to look out for when evaluating woodwork joining.

- Screws are nearly always far superior to staples, as staples generally tend to work loose fairly simply and quickly.

- In general furniture with rabbetted and butted joints are sometimes indications that the furniture is cheaply constructed. A rabbeted joint is one in which a small groove is lower in the end of the top piece of wooden to sit down on the lower wood, and is usually glued or stapled together. A butted joint would not even reduce a groove out and simply places two boards positioned at right angles and glued or stapled together.

- High quality furnishings tends to have screws that are sunk into the wooden and which have little wood plugs overlaying them to cover the screw. This is often the case when screws are visible, but even high quality woodwork typically lets screws show on the underside.

- Bolts are also robust and sturdy, though the must have a self-locking mechanism, and on high quality furnishings they are going to be hidden.

Jasol L - About the Author:

Article by Jasol L. Everything you need to know about woodworking, DIY furniture, Beds tree house and many other free tips on woodworking. To know more please visit: http://www.woodworkingplanswebsite.com

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/learn-how-to-establish-high-quality-woodworking-3681939.html

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A Professional Furnituremaker Discusses The Woodworking Hand Tools Experience

I feel fortunate that I was able to get a solid base in hand woodworking during the early part of my career. I got in on the tail end of a traditional cabinetmaking program at an old vocational college run by a master woodworker who had learned his trade in his father's carriage shop. Each student was assigned a bench and a drawer containing the basic hand tools: a plane, a backsaw, chisels, a small hammer, a square, and a marking gauge. As we worked at the benches, the teacher and his helpers walked around the shop, offering assistance. Although there were some heavy machines in the shop, the predominant atmosphere was one of bench work. Our first task was to make a half-lap joint from a rough piece of poplar using only the tools from our drawer. We started by planing one face flat and from that face squarely an edge. Then we marked and planed to the finish thickness, cut the piece in half squarely, and outlined the joint. Next, we sawed and chiseled the joint, all the while checking for square. Once we felt we had a good joint, an instructor would inspect it from all sides for square, flatness, and fit. This exercise demanded intense concentration and it provided the groundwork for my attitude toward woodworking. Attention to detail, a respect for handwork, and the importance of good joinery provided firm cornerstones.

Twenty years later, as a professional furnituremaker, I still that it is important for me to maintain a balance between handwork and machine work. Being in business sets some of the limits. You may not want money to dictate how you  work, but it is a major concern if you are going to work wood for a living. The question of whether a particular process should be accomplished by hand or machine raises a number of questions: Which method is more efficient? Which produces better work-or makes a more valuable finished piece?

I feel that dovetails,for example,can be done best by hand. Even with the new generation of jigs, the extra-fine hand-cut look cannot be achieved with a machine; nor is jigging much faster when there are only a few joints to do;Hand-cut dovetails will also give a piece a much greater investment value. On the other hand, planing a rough board by hand doesn't usually add value. It may be rewarding personally , but hand planing isn't more efficient than using a thickness planer, nor are'the results better.

There are many occasions when it is quicker to pick up a hand tool than to set up a machine for a simple operation. I usually cut tenon shoulders with a handsaw and chisel rather than working with a band saw or a table saw. But I taper table legs on the jointer, instead of bandsawing to a line and hand planing the legs smooth. Finding the right balance of hand and power tools is a highly individual matter, balancing the combination of efficiency and value that suits each of us.

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Woodworking How To Make Box Joints ?

Before the advent of cardboard boxes, manufacturers joined the sides of thin wooden boxes with these joints because they were strong and fast to make. Today,box joints have taken on practical and decorative roles in projects ranging from jewellery cases to hope chests. After you build the jig featured in the Box-Joint Jig Project, follow these steps and see firsthand how easily you can master this joinery method. Visit the Woodworking Plans Website pages for more woodworking articles.

1. Before you cut the actual box joints, keep in mind that the width of your box sides must be an increment of the finger width. Otherwise, you'll wind up with less-thanpleasing partial fingers at the bottom of your box. So, in the example of 1/4"-thick stock discussed here and in the jig-building article, the width of the work pieces must be an increment of 1/4" (such as 5", 5 1/4", 5 1/2", etc.).

Mark the front, back, and side pieces of y box. Also, mark the top edge on each of these pieces.

For each box you make, you cut the sides consecutively, and the front and back consecutively. It doesn't matter which pair you do first, so we'll start with the sides.

For all of the following cuts, hold the top edge of the work piece toward the jig pin for the first cut. Now, put hand pressure on the jig to hold its mitre-gauge bar firmly against the right side of the table saw channel. Make the first cut as shown above. Place the just-cut notch over the jib pin and repeat to cut fingers along the full width of the work piece. Cut the other sidepiece in the same fashion.

3. Before you cut the front and back, cut one notch into a scrap piece, just as you cut the first notch into the sidepiece earlier. Position this notch over the pin as shown at left, and butt the top edge of the front piece against the scrap before making a cut. Make the remaining cuts in the front piece by removing the scrap, placing the notch over the pin, and proceeding as described earlier. Cut the back piece just as you cut the front.

4. To join your box pieces, apply glue to all of the mating surfaces with a small brush. Tap the joints together with a rubber mallet if necessary. Clamp the box together as shown above. (You may need to position a clamp diagonally to square the box.) Note that we used scrap pieces on each side of the corners to evenly distribute the clamping pressure along the joint. Wider boxes may require additional clamps. After the glue dries, sand the fingers flush with the sides, front, and back. Be careful not to round over the corners.Visit the Woodworking Plans TV pages for more woodworking articles.

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In this episode, I discuss a fundamental woodworking joint, the mortise and tenon. Check out all our videos and projects at thewoodwhisperer.com

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Getting Started With Woodworking Tools

Woodworking is a great hobby to get into.  Many people worry about getting started because they imagine that the tools are very expensive.  There are a lot of expensive tools on the market, but as you get started, you'll realize that a lot of the fancy tools out there are not necessary for completing many projects.

Choose a project that takes minimal tools to get started.  As your skills progress, you may want to add in a tool here or there to start your collection.  You don't need to go out and buy all of the tools that you'll ever need in one fail swoop.  You will probably need a chisel, a hacksaw, some clamps, and a level or square to get started.  Just do a little research and determine what you need before you go to the store.  The woodworking section may seem overwhelming at first.

As you progress, you may start looking into some power tools.  Not all are created equal.  To avoid wasting money on tools that will break or not perform how you need them to, look at customer reviews or talk to a friend that has tried them.  Cheaper doesn't always mean lower quality, however.  You could get some great deals on quality power tools by finding last year's model on sale.  You can find tools on auction sites for a lot cheaper than in retail stores.  If it is a real specialty tool, you might be better off renting or borrowing it instead of investing in something that you may rarely use.

The next thing to consider is the type of wood that you use.  Softer woods are easier to work with and are recommended for beginners.  Hard woods are harder to work with and cost more, so mistakes can be more costly.  Pine is generally cheap and easy to work with.

Before you go investing in a lot of woodworking books, check out what your library has to offer.  There are often times a lot of useful books at the library that you can check out and use for tips and free plans.  There are also a lot of sites on the internet that offer free plans, along with tips and reviews from people that have tried them.  Save that money for the tools that you will inevitably want to buy!

If you want to build furniture, cabinets, shelves, or other household items, it might serve you well to research "joinery" before you begin.  There are many different ways to join two pieces of wood together.  The type of joint that you use will depend on the intended purpose of the project.  The more weight the joint will need to hold, the more sturdy and secure the joint will need to be.  Don't be afraid to learn how to use dowels for joints.  Using a <a rel="nofollow" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);" href="http://www.goodwoodinc.com/"title="Dowel">dowel</a> rod to create a joint gives it strength and helps you to create a smooth look, without a lot of screws or nails showing.

HAND SHOULDER TENON JOINT JOINER EDGE PLANE PLANER FOR WOOD WOODWORKING TOOL US $59.99

WOODWORKING WOOD POCKET HOLE JOINT GUIDE JIG TOOL US $27.99

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