Archive for September, 2010

Biscuit Joinery and Pocket-hole Technology for Woodworking Enthusiasts

When building cabinets, furniture and other such woodworking projects, the best joining method to use can be a looming question. Craftsmen strive for the strongest, most durable and smooth joints possible, and to achieve this - craftsmen strive also, for the best joinery technique. There are many methods of quality wood joinery, some of the most popular methods being biscuit (or plate) joinery, and pocket-hole joinery. Biscuit joinery and pocket-hole technology each provide exceptionally strong joints in a simple, reliable process. Each of these techniques offer a different set of features that fasten joints in different and effective ways.

Biscuit or plate joinery involves the insertion of a biscuit into an oval, or crescent shaped slot that is cut into opposite edges of two pieces of wood. Biscuits are pre-cut, oval-shaped pieces of compressed wood that range in size from 1/2in to 2-1/4in in length. There are also biscuits available in plastic, aluminum, and steel for special applications, generally however, wood biscuits are the most prominently used. Biscuits (dabbed with glue) are inserted into specially cut slots in the wood that are shaped identically to the biscuit, the two pieces of wood are clamped together to set, and thus form a strong, durable joint. The biscuits also tend to soak up the glue applied to them before insertion which causes them to swell and make the joint tighter, and stronger. Porter Cable, DEWALT, and Makita each offer high quality plate joiners with unique, and individual features to help meet your needs, and build your joints better.

Porter Cable offers a Deluxe Plate Joiner Kit with a powerful 7.5 amps and 10,000 rpm. This joiner has many features that simplify the joining process, including: a precise micro height-adjustment knob to keep biscuits exactly centered, and a 1in O.D. (outer diameter) dust port that works with standard bags or can simply hook up to a vacuum. The DW682K has a fence tilt of 0 to135 degrees with a positive adjustable stop at 90 degrees; and, for increased cutting control and stability, the bale handle is attached to the fence rather than the motor. The joiner also has a lock-on trigger for continual use and a supremely accurate (at any angle) hight scale to precisely measure positions. Porter Cable's plate joiner has seven-position rotating depth stop to accommodate a variety of biscuit sizes and depths, and a spindle lock mechanism for simple blade changes. For standard and face-frame biscuits, Porter Cable's Deluxe Plate Joiner Kit includes both 2in and 4in diameter blades. The kit also includes a centering plate, dust bag, a chip deflector, allen wrench, and a carrying case for portability and convenience.

DEWALT offers a similar Heavy-Duty Plate Joiner with 6.5 amps and no load speed of 10,000 rpm; tough enough to work through even the hardest wood. To ensure the most accurate joints, the DW682K features a dual rack and pinion system that keeps the blade and fence always parallel as you work - every time. The one piece fence is also adjustable with a 0-90 degree tilt, and, at zero degrees, a flush cut can be made without removing the fence. Additionally, the fence has a locating notch at 45 degrees that allows indexing off the outside surface of a mitered joint: in other words, the fence has a positive lock at 45 degrees to keep your joints always accurate. The joiner, having a no mar, heavy-duty aluminum shoe, can be clamped down to work surfaces for stationary work - and has retractable, anti-slip pins to help hold your work in place, and preset depth stops for all common biscuit sizes. DEWALT's joiner kit comes with a carbide blade, dust bag, a vacuum adapter, Torx key, wrench, and a heavy-duty kit box for security. The DW682K comes with DEWALT's one year free service contract, and a three year limited warranty.

Makita also provides an excellent option in biscuit joinery. Their 3901 plate joiner runs on 5.6 amps, and with a no load speed of 10,000 rpm. Although with slightly less amps, the tool is strong enough to make the tight, and lasting joints craftsmen expect from biscuit joinery. Makita's joiner has a one-touch 6 depth setting that allows for immediate depth change when working, and accommodates most common biscuit sizes. Makita's 3901 also features a shaft lock for fast, simple blade changes, and easy to operate cam locks for added security. With a cast aluminum pivot fence with positive stops at 0, 45, and 90 degrees the joiner is always accurate and precise, and is designed to quickly and simply make strong and durable plate joints. The tool has a maximum cut depth of 25/32in, a large top grip handle, no mar rubber strip insert, and is double insulated for additional security/safety on the job. Makita's 3901 plate joiner includes a carbide tipped blade (4in in diameter), an angle guide, dust bag, lock nut wrench, set plate, inner flange, lock nut, and a plastic tool case for convenience and portability. The tool is just over a foot long and weighs 6.2 lbs.

Pocket-hole technology involves drilling an angled hole into one workpiece and joining it to another with a self-tapping screw. This process eliminates tedious drilling applications, and provides a fast, strong joint in which the screw acts as a permanent internal clamp pulling and holding two workpieces together. Kreg offers a Jig Master System specifically designed for pocket-hole joinery. The K3MS is effectively two tools in one having interchangeable drill guide blocks that can shift between benchtop and portable bases. The tool has an easy access, spring-loaded, front-side clamp that eliminates reaching around big panels to get to your toggle clamps; it keeps everything within arms reach so you can maintain speed and greater ease on the job.

To help you perfectly place your pocket-holes in a variety of widths and thicknesses Kreg offers a three-hole drill guide with a hardened steel core. This steel core also protects bits by keeping them completely covered, and supports work pieces throughout the entire drilling process. This technology reduces bit deflection and tear-out, and provides a clean, smooth, and pluggable pocket-hole. Kreg's jig also has a material support stop that can be set at any distance from the jig enabling you to repeat the same pocket-hole numerous times. This stop can also swing or flip out of the way to act also as a height support for large panels. Additionally, Kreg utilizes an optimized drilling angle specifically configured to enhance driving efficiency and reduce the pocket-hole's overall size to less than 1-1/2in. A wood-chip relief system -which consists of one wood-chip relief hole per every drill guide hole - keeps messy debris out of your drill bits and decreases drill torque output, thus increasing the life of your drill bits. With this system you can create an smooth pocket-hole in one plunge. Kreg jigs are built with an unique composite material that is flexible, resilient and also strong and durable; each jig is also built in-part with heavy-duty glass-reinforced nylon that maintains its strength and longevity.

Each of these joinery options is unique and provides professional results and professional strength to your joints. Both biscuit joinery, and pocket-hole joinery offer simple and strong solutions to achieving the perfect woodworking joint.

As a student at the University of Utah, Mallory Kramer is currently earning an Englinsh degree. Three years ago she joined M&M Tool adding to their over 150 years combined experience; there, she specializes in tool parts and web communications. For over 60 years M&M Tool has provided professional service to the tool industry with parts, sales, and service to professionl level woodworking products, tools, and machinery.

Leigh 11-Pc. Carbide Boxed Bit Set For F2/F1 Finger Joint Templates
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Types Of Joints For Building A Bookcase

This article provides a quick run down on common woodworking joints that you may come across in implementing a set of bookcase plans, or any woodwork plan or project. There are many different types of joints which vary in complexity, however you'll often find that the more complex the joint is, the stronger it is. So here's the basic run down:

Butt - this is a simple joint which involves joining the two pieces of wood edge to edge. It is usually reinforced with glue and/or screws.
Lap - this joint provides a modification on the butt joint which involves making a rabbet in the overlapping piece of wood. This adds to greater strength as there is more glueing area.
Mitre - A mitre joint looks appealing but does require more accuracy in cutting the pieces. In a mitre joint the two pieces of wood are cut at 45 degrees and joined together to make a corner.
Dado - This is where one piece of wood had a rabbet cut and receives the other piece into the rabbet. The dado joint is popular for bookcase shelves.
Dowel - this is a straightforward yet strong joint. It requires holes to be drilled and dowels glued into place to hold the joint.
Mortise and Tenon - this joint is a strong joint. It takes a bit more effort to master and involves cutting a hole in one piece of wood that will receive the other piece of wood.
Tongue and Groove - this joint is often used for floors and paneling. It allows for the wood to move with changes in temperature and involves cutting a groove in one piece of wood and a tongue on the other piece that fits into the first piece of wood.
Dovetail - the dovetail is an aesthetically appealing joint. It has an interlocking appearance. It is quite strong but requires patience and time to cut accurately.

Ky is a passionate firefighter, mum and hobby woodworker!  Read more about Bookcase Plans.

Glue Bottle Roller By Peachtree Woodworking - PW1272
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MANCHESTER: Residents can register for Walker Tavern workshop on Shaker box making
Master woodworker John Wilson will be teaching the lost art of Shaker Oval Box-making at the Walker Tavern Historic Site in Brooklyn Oct. 1 and 2. The workshop runs on Friday from 6 to 10 p.m. and continues on Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Read more on The Manchester Enterprise

Basic Woodworking Joints

Nowadays, it is possible to build almost any piece of furniture without being able to tell a dovetail from a bridle joint or ever touching a chisel. But if you want to work wood or if your interest is in repairing, restoring or reproducing traditional furniture, you will need to know the purposes of cut joints and the way to make them.

Cutting traditional joints is work for hand tools; the right ones, correctly used without rushing.
The tools you need

The tools required are few and mostly unsophisticated. Jigs, which can save time setting out when the same joint must be repeated several times, are available. But they are limited in the size of work-piece that can be accommodated and require much the same level of concentration in use as tools used freehand. You can also make your own jigs.

A basic setting and marking out kit consists of a try-square (for angles other than 90° use a sliding bevel), a pencil and a marking knife, a straight-edged rule (preferably stainless steel) and marking and mortise gauges.

The four basic tools for making joints are a saw, a chisel, a mallet and a plane. You do not need to use all four for every joint. For some joints you need only use a saw - usually a tenon saw, but fine cabinet work may call for a dovetail saw, which is similar but smaller. Even finer work - on small drawers and boxes or on models, say - may need a gents saw, which has a straight handle and very small teeth. A coping saw is useful for cutting out the waste between dovetails and pins.

Many joints require chisels - the most satisfactory type for general use is the bevel-edge chisel, in widths from 6.5mm upwards. A block or smoothing plane is needed to level the surfaces of the joint after it has been assembled. Rebate, moulding and plough planes could also be used to make the work easier. A router makes a better job of smoothing and levelling the bottom of housings than a chisel.

Joints
The naming of joints is not always consistent: some are called one thing by one craftsman and something else by another. Where alternative names are common, we have given both.

A joint is a fixed junction between two or more pieces of wood: it should not be flexible. The simplest is the butt joint, in which two surfaces are brought together in the same plane and joined with glue or mechanical devices, such as pins or screws, or a combination of both. A dowelled joint is basically a butt joint secured with glued-in wooden pins - dowels.

Joints are very important in wood working. You should know how to replace a wooden window sill and how to finish and stain wood.

Glue Bottle Roller By Peachtree Woodworking - PW1272
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Question by Lukey: Woodworking Joints?
can someone please list a heap of different Woodworking Joints, Such as the Biscuit Joint
Thanks!

Best answer:

Answer by Sucky Fucky
The tennon, jig, fling, clout, dont, annoy, people, look, on, web!

What do you think? Answer below!

Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

A rebate joint, at its simplest, is a slightly stronger version of a butt joint it pro¬vides contact between the mating com¬ponents in two planes instead of one. A rebate is formed by removing a square or rectangular section across the end or along the edge of a piece of wood using hand or power tools.

Rebate joint
In the simplest type of rebate joint, the rebate is normally cut to half the wood thickness, leaving a projecting tongue equal to the thickness of the other, square-cut component. This type of rebate is often used on the lops of book¬cases and shelf unils where the top rests on and between the top ends of the sides. It may also be used for joining drawer fronts to and between the sides. At least half the end grain is hidden.

The joints are usually reinforced with pins, driven through the overlap in pairs at opposing angles - this is called dovetail nailing.

The rebate is usually cut with a rebate plane. This has a width guide and a depth stop and cleans the vertical edge of the cut as it is used. Short rebates in a board end, for example can be cut with a saw but care is needed.

Bare-faced halving
This is another type of rebate joint often used for fixing shelves in bookcases. The shelves have rebated ends with the projecting tongue lilting into the horizontal slots in the inner faces of the bookcase sides. The joint is made shoulder-up for strength. This joint may be used in drawers; a rebated back may be housed between the sides, or a front

Housing joints
Not all housing joints are rebated, but whether they are or not. they fall in two categories: the through housing, in which the construction is visible at both back and front edges of the joint; and the stop¬ped housing which from the front edge appears to be a simple butt joint.

Through housing
This is a simple joint to set out and cut. The shoulder lines of the housing (the thickness of the board to be housed apart) should be marked across the inner face of the board and squared over the edges. The depth of the housing - between one-third and half the thick¬ness - should be marked with a gauge. Then shoulders should be sawn and the waste removed with a chisel again work from each edge towards the centre. Finish the bottom of the housing with a router or a paring chisel.

Stopped housing
In this joint the cut should be taken only part way across the board, stopping about 20mm from the front edge. The end of the board to fit into it should be cut at the front corner to accommodate the 'stop'.

Mark shoulder lines across the inner face as far as the stop and on the back edge. Gauge the depth on the back edge too. To allow room to work the saw, the first 50mm of the housing back from the stop should be cut out with the chisel -used with its bevel down. Then saw shoulders, and chisel out the remaining waste and finish the bottom of the hous¬ing with a router if you have one.

Now you have known about rebate and Hosing joints. Working with wood requires a lot of expertise. You should know how to control wood pests and how to work with Plywood.

MLCS Woodworking Box Joint Router Bit - 1/2" Shank
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Whiteside - WS3354 - 1 1/2" Standard Glue Joint
WHITESIDE MACHINE 3354 CARBIDE-TIP STANDARD GLUE JOINT ROUTER BIT 1-1/2 LARGE DIA X 1/2" SHANK X 2-3/4" OAL FOR 1/2" TO 1-1/4" THI...
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JEWELRY BOX - PAPER WOODWORKING PLAN

  • Paper woodworking plan.
  • Construction is simple using dado, rabbet, & groove joinery.
  • Photo shows box made with curly maple & wenge. (WOOD NOT INCLUDED)
  • Full pattern for easy cutting with instructions for assembly.
  • Choose your favorite wood for a distinctive look all your own.

Looking to craft a unique item to delight someone special? This stylish chest, make with eye-catching curly maple & wenge (not included) is just the ticket. Though the project looks sophisticated, the construction's surprisingly simple, thanks to the straightforward dado, rabbet, & groove joinery.

List Price: $ 12.95

Our Price: $ 8.95

Click Here For Info About JEWELRY BOX - PAPER WOODWORKING PLAN

The design of this Woodworking Jewelry Box is simple and practical. Any woodworker, including a beginning woodworker, can build this beautiful Jewelry Box or Poker Box. There is a complete description at www.provenwoodworking.com
Video Rating: 3 / 5

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3-in-1 Bed for All Ages: Downloadable Woodworking Plan
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Bird Feeders Woodcraft Project Woodworking Pattern

  • The Winfield Collection Full Size Woodcraft Patterns #BH4 --Bird Feeders.
  • The package includes the complete pattern to make the original design shown.
  • Easy assembly instructions included.
  • These great looking bird feeders are a snap to create from the complete, full size patterns enclosed.
  • Make them from weather resistant rough sawn cedar for the rustic look shown.

These great looking bird feeders are a snap to create from the complete, full size patterns enclosed. Make them from weather resistant rough sawn cedar for the rustic look shown.
Large, open feeder measures 20" x 20".
Small, glass sided feeder measures 12" x 13"

This full size woodcraft pattern is a part of the fun, easy-to-make projects from the Winfield Collection! Be sure to look for additional patterns to add to your project list!

Our Price: $ 8.95

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8 Needle Rasp Files Woodworking Wood Filing Hand Tool

8 New Needle File Set. This is a new set of 8 rasp needle files. These are for filing wood. Better performance on hard to file surfaces. Little or no clogging. A simple knock is enough to remove the chips. Highly resistant to corrosion and has a longer life than standard files. Each measures approximately 5 1/2" (140 mm) long. We work hard to update our descriptions and pictures of our merchandise. As part of a process of ongoing innovation by our suppliers, newer versions of the item shown may be shipped before we are able to complete an update. As a result there may be a slight variation in color and design.

Our Price: $ 10.33

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Gator Clamps 410-36 36-Inch Clamp N Cut Multi-Purpose Woodworking Tool
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FastCap Accuscribe Scribing Tool
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Kreg V03-DVD Pocket Hole Joinery DVD, Cabinet Making
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Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit, and Use
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Black & Decker PHS550B 3.4 Amp Powered Handsaw with Storage Bag
BDK PHS550B POWERED HANDSAW WITH BAG 3.4 AMP;4600 SPM MOTOR FOR CONTROLLED CUTS IN WOOD, PLASTIC & METAL;COMPACT & LIGHTWEIGHT; PO...

Woodwork Joints

Anatomical Structure of Woodwork Joints

Depending on the type of woodworking project you may have in mind, the following will help you decide on what appropriate woodwork joint to use. With the advent of new tools and machineries, traditional joints have evolved in various types. These woodwork joints differ in styles but have the ultimate purpose of making a strong and stable woodwork.

1. Square Butt Joint. Simply known as the butt joint, it is the most basic joint in joining two pieces of timber relying solely on glue to stick it together. The advantage of this is its being quick and easy to make. It is very useful in making boxes and picture frames. However, since the end of the timber where glue is applied is porous which absorbs most of the glue, it becomes difficult to hold the timber together. On the other hand, this can be strengthened by using screws or pins as support.

2. Mitre or Miter Joint. This is a joint created by sawing one end of two parts to be joined at an angle of 45° to form a 90o angle corner. This is more often used in making picture frames than butt joints. Although this popular method of joining is cheap, it requires accurate cutting to achieve its best strength and visual appeal.

3. Dado Joint. Also known as the housed joint, this type of joint is most popularly used in making bookcases, shelves, and drawers . Unlike butt joints, this joint does not need the benefit of any glue or screw to hold it in place. To make a dado joint, a cut in one piece of wood receives the end of the other. It is much stronger than the butt joint and has a more professional appeal.

4. Dowel Joint. To make a dowel joint, drill aligning holes in each piece of wood then by using glue attach the dowels in place for a tight joint. To achieve high accuracy, it requires a dowelling jig and bits. Use a jig and a drill press to obtain straight holes with uniform depth.

5. Mortise-and-Tenon Joint. This joint is used to Join two members perpendicularly. A rectangular projection from the end of one piece called the tenon fits snugly into the mortise cut in the second piece. This strong and traditional joint can be made even stronger by adding a peg. This is commonly used in antique furniture building.

6. Tongue-and-Groove Joint. Also known as the finger joint, this joint allows for wood shrinkage, it's great for floors and paneling. Long tapered tongues or fingers that interlock join two pieces of timber lengthwise. A high powered router is used to cut a groove in the edge of one piece and a tongue on the other to fit into the groove.

7. Through-Dovetail Joint. This is one of the most stylish joints available, but also one that requires additional patience and more accuracy to cut. The interlocking cut of the wood makes it really strong plus gives more visual interest. This type of joint is used in the manufacture of superior furniture.

8. Lap Joint. This is made by laying one piece on top of another. This can be used either in an angle or lengthwise joint. Lap joints can be made manually with a saw and chisel, on a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, or with a router and a straight bit. Meanwhile, there is a variation of a lap joint which is the half lap joint. This is when half of the thickness from each piece is removed. To make a half lap joint, several cuts half the depth of the material is made while the excess is removed with a chisel.

Now that you know most of the different types of woodwork joints and you can now determine which is best suited for your next woodwork project, there is no reason why you shouldn’t start working on it.

Woodworking Websites have become a lot more than a hobby, I now have a very successful and stress free life by helping others build and own their own Website Businesses.

My ebook "Chewing Bread for Ducks" has become very popular with people who want their website on Page One on Google. (and other Search Engines of course).

Happy Days

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